RS200 Continuous Kicker and what else?

This is a photo of one side showing the eye that is attached to the grab rail. The rope goes across just in front of the mainsheet block.

In my old 200 I routed the continuous kicker from the cleat to a ring attached to the grab rail (like the pic above, then over the front of the thwart, back up behind the thwart, through a little fairlead mounted between mainsheet block and back of thwart and then under thwart and over it and back to the ring on the opposite side. This keeps the long loop of excess rope out from under your feet a bit as I found that it washed back a bit when it was windy and I kept getting tied up in it!

Originally posted by GybeFunny In my old 200 I routed the continuous kicker from the cleat to a ring attached to the grab rail (like the pic above, then over the front of the thwart, back up behind the thwart, through a little fairlead mounted between mainsheet block and back of thwart and then under thwart and over it and back to the ring on the opposite side. This keeps the long loop of excess rope out from under your feet a bit as I found that it washed back a bit when it was windy and I kept getting tied up in it! Also remove mainsheet cleat. Fit righting lines. To keep the tack down run the cunningham up, through the normal larger eye, down round a pin that you add to the front of the boom and then dead end it after passing it through the bottom eye, that way when you pull the cunninghamon it also pulls the bottom down. Definitely run the mainsheet outside the boom but support it for at least 80% of its external run, just duct tape some OHP slides under the boom to cover it. Make sure that you dont have the original 8:1 kicker, you can change to a 12:1 using a cascade or 16:1 if you buy an extra triple (??) pulley. Some people prefer 1:1 mainsheet, others a 2:1 so try both and see which you prefer. You could fit a spinlock for the kite halyard if you still have the cam cleat. Have you got a floating block behind the kite halyard cleat, you definitely need one. You should also remove the tweaker line from the mast and you should route the kite halyard through the lower of the 2 mast pulleys, the tweaker line will inevitably fail when you dont want it to. If you only have the plastic gromet in the tweaker line hole then move the pulley from the upper hole to the tweaker line exit point.

I'm not entirely sure that the use of a turning block is class legal, although having had a quick look at the rules I can't actually see anything that forbids it.

That said how are you supposed to return the rope if you cant use blocks?