Repair & maintenance: Fixing Cleats to Fibreglass

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Fixing Cleats to Fibreglass

Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: General
Forum Name: Repair & maintenance
Forum Discription: Questions & tips on the subject
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9290
Printed Date: 14 May 25 at 4:09pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Fixing Cleats to Fibreglass

Posted By: MattTrinder
Subject: Fixing Cleats to Fibreglass
Date Posted: 04 May 12 at 7:59am

I need to fix a cleat to a single fibreglass skin - I don't have access to the back to be able to bolt it. What would be the best way of attaching it securely ?

Thanks

Matt

Replies:

Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 04 May 12 at 8:17am

What are the loads like and how thick is the skin? Suitable solutions range from just pop riveting to constructing a large glass plate, bolting the fitting to that and gluing/glassing the plate onto the existing skin. It all depends...

Posted By: MattTrinder
Date Posted: 04 May 12 at 8:56am

Cleats are for kicker (16:1) and cunningham (4:1), so loads will be reasonable but not enormous. Skin is I guess 4mm, I haven't drilled it yet.

I did see one other post which suggested drilling a hole, feeding a line through to the nearest hatch, attaching an adhesive coated backing plate to the line, and pulling back through to the fixing location, which seems sensible, if a bit fiddly..

Posted By: Contender443
Date Posted: 04 May 12 at 9:22am

What boat is this for Matt? A 16:1 kicker will give a lot of force and will continually flex as the wind loads vary.

You will certainly need some sort of backing plate made of glass or wood that is fixed to the hull. Then probably washers on the bolts to prevent the bolt pulling through the holes.

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Bonnie Lass Contender 1764

Posted By: MattTrinder
Date Posted: 04 May 12 at 10:53am

It's on a Buzz. I thought at the 16 end of a 16:1 ratio the cleat was only feeling 1/16th the force at the business end? Still substantial though I guess.

Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 04 May 12 at 11:22am

If its genuinely a 4mm skin you could probably get away with self tapping screws, but that seems awfully thick... I think I'd probably epoxy a hd foam/glass plate onto the top that's big enough for both fittings plus a good bit more round the edge, and then use self tapping screws right through both skins to attach the fitting. The trouble with trying to juggle a plate on the back with string is getting it stuck down properly. If the surface isn't flat you'll most likely fail.

Posted By: Rupert
Date Posted: 04 May 12 at 11:35am

I guess the plate you juggle onto the back doesn't have to stick that well - just well enough to hold it in place whilst the screws go through. After that, it is held in place by the fittings. It does involve there being a hatch near enough for a piece of string not to get lost on the way!

The load on a 16:1 kicker is pretty huge, especially as the rig flexes.

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Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686

Posted By: alstorer
Date Posted: 04 May 12 at 1:21pm

Does the Buzz not have reinforced areas at the cleat locations? Pretty sure that on the ISO the primary reason for the class restricting moving any cleats was that other sections of the deck were not engineered to take the loads. Sometimes restrictive class rules on an OD hull are for your own good!

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Al

Posted By: MattTrinder
Date Posted: 04 May 12 at 4:10pm

Originally posted by alstorer

Does the Buzz not have reinforced areas at the cleat locations? Pretty sure that on the ISO the primary reason for the class restricting moving any cleats was that other sections of the deck were not engineered to take the loads. Sometimes restrictive class rules on an OD hull are for your own good!

It had crossed my mind, I'm still thinking about this. Trouble is our dinghy park is under 3 feet of water at the moment so I can't even get down there to have a look...