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dagger boat tip - repair

Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: General
Forum Name: Repair & maintenance
Forum Discription: Questions & tips on the subject
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5660
Printed Date: 15 May 25 at 1:06am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: dagger boat tip - repair
Posted By: Fin.
Subject: dagger boat tip - repair
Date Posted: 26 Jun 09 at 12:53pm

hi

- okay  I managed to run my dagger board  along the  bottom of the  slip...

anyway, there's an inch missing from the tip. The top of the curve where the forward and  traling edge meet.

I am quite good at repairing  the trailing edges with expoxy and  filler mix, but the  tip presents more of a  challenge.  I guess I tape acetate sheets in place then shape/fair the harden resin afterwards?

Any tips?

(pardon the pun!).

/fin

 

 

 

 




Replies:
Posted By: Webmuppet
Date Posted: 26 Jun 09 at 6:55pm
I replaced the missing tip from my Laser's dagger-board using the backing cards from blocks/shackles taped to the board to get the profile. In addition I roughed up the surface with a coarse file to help the filler key to the surface and drilled some small holes and used epoxy to fix some panel pins into the surface so that the heads sat proud of the surface to help the repair to stay attached. It sounds like a lot of work but I did the repair in a single evening,

Nigel


-------------
I am the milkman of human kindness, I will leave an extra pint (Billy Bragg)

Graduate 2530 'Galaxy'


Posted By: Andymac
Date Posted: 26 Jun 09 at 8:16pm

If I can just add to Webmuppet's post;

To ensure a strong repair, it is probably necessary to make it 'worse' before you make it better.

It's difficult to get a good lasting repair at a narrow tip if you just rely on the narrow contact area of the cross-section. I find that by taking it back to a clean line across the width, then chamfer back both sides at around 45 to 60 degrees, before using the epoxy filler repair. It should withstand substantially more lateral force without it shearing straight off again [at the slightest accidental knock].



Posted By: redback
Date Posted: 26 Jun 09 at 10:33pm
I'm inclined to bang a few nails in ans fill around them.  Something that's a bit harder than car body filler is epoxy putty.  Buy it from the same source - its often sold as something to block holes on petrol tanks and the like.


Posted By: Webmuppet
Date Posted: 26 Jun 09 at 11:14pm
Originally posted by redback

I'm inclined to bang a few nails in ans fill around them.  Something that's a bit harder than car body filler is epoxy putty.  Buy it from the same source - its often sold as something to block holes on petrol tanks and the like.


I've always been a bit scared of 'banging in nails' for fear of doing more damage, hence I opted for the drilling / epoxy / pin technique (that's not to say that the nails aren't a good option, perhaps I'm being too cautious). When you say epoxy putty, do you mean the stuff that comes in a plastic tube that you knead until the two component are mixed ?..........I've got some in my tool box but I've never tried it on foils - it's great stuff for gel-coat 'first-aid' pending the opportunity to do a proper repair,

Nigel


-------------
I am the milkman of human kindness, I will leave an extra pint (Billy Bragg)

Graduate 2530 'Galaxy'


Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 27 Jun 09 at 12:30am
Maybe not a nail... but I have cut in a stainless steel shroud plate in the past... The holes are good because its extra key!


Posted By: redback
Date Posted: 28 Jun 09 at 10:30pm
That's the stuff.


Posted By: craiggo
Date Posted: 29 Jun 09 at 10:12pm
Im a fan of the make it worse to make it better route, but dont tend to use nails. Dig out any soft stuff in the middle, and create a pocket in the good part of the foil. I always find that a couple of strips of parcel tape on one side and build up loosely against it works best. Also dont try to do it all in one go. Get the shape almost there but a little undersized. Make sure it goes off and bonds well. Once you are nearly there you just need a final go at it to get a good surface. Lots of colloidal helps but is a bit tough to hand finish!



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