Slot Gaskets - replacement.
Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: General
Forum Name: Repair & maintenance
Forum Discription: Questions & tips on the subject
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5441
Printed Date: 15 May 25 at 3:32am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Slot Gaskets - replacement.
Posted By: fleaberto
Subject: Slot Gaskets - replacement.
Date Posted: 23 Apr 09 at 3:09pm
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Ok, so i'm pretty new to this sailing malarkey & very new to this boat-ownership malarkey. Whilst renewing bits on my Lightning368, i was thinking about the slot gasket. Now, it looks simple enough to me - but i'm rapidly learning the folly of this thought process with regards to boats! What i'd like to know is 1) Is it really as easy as it looks to replace it? 2) Whats the best material - sailcloth or mylar? 3) With the materials appearing to be quite cheap, why do some boat repair companies want £200 to replace it? - what am i missing? Step-by-step advice would be hugely appreciated.
Cheers Lee
------------- Lightning368 'All the Gear' (409), Lightning368 'Sprite' (101), Laser (big number) 'Yellow Jack', RS Vareo (432)'The Golden Rays' |
Replies:
Posted By: Paramedic
Date Posted: 23 Apr 09 at 5:57pm
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£200 is ridiculous. it should only take 2 hours to get the most horribly stuck on one off. So in the worst case scenario it should be £100 for a mylar one stuck on with sikkaflex if you charge £30 per hour labour . Sailcloth ones can be a pain if the keelband breaks especially if it's made of brass as it's expensive. If your boat has a sailcloth gasket stick with sailcloth, likewise if it's mylar. Mylar ones have to be glued on with sikkaflex or contact adhesive, we've found the former significantly better provided you do it right. In either case it will fall off quickly if not done properly. MAke sure the area you're glueing to is clean and dry and you should be ok. Don't forget to cut the slot before you go sailing! |
Posted By: JohnW
Date Posted: 23 Apr 09 at 6:20pm
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There are some good articles with step by step instructions below. http://www.hawkmarineproducts.com/slot.htm - http://www.hawkmarineproducts.com/slot.htm http://www.wayfarer-international.org/WIT/maint.repair.ref/CB.rudder/Slot.Gaskets/MikeOnGaskets1.PDF - http://www.wayfarer-international.org/WIT/maint.repair.ref/C B.rudder/Slot.Gaskets/MikeOnGaskets1.PDF http://www.draycotewater.co.uk/fleets/fireball/html/rigging_-_the_slot_gasket.html - http://www.draycotewater.co.uk/fleets/fireball/html/rigging_ -_the_slot_gasket.html There are many debates on this forum of the relative merits of mylar over sailcloth, in summary I believe it is agreed that sailcloth lasts longer as it is less prone to snagging damage. Mylar is generally thought to offer a better seal until it snags, catches or tears. For Mylar there are two schools of thought - overlapped or not. Search other threads for pros and cons of each approach. All I would say is that if you use mylar and cut the slot down the middle yourself, then it MUST be very straight and central so that it lines up with the trailing edge of the c/b as it is raised, otherwise the edges will catch and the mylar snag as the plate is raised. |
Posted By: G.R.F.
Date Posted: 23 Apr 09 at 9:17pm
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Had a bit of adhesive breakthrough recently with my board slot gasket
which is exactly as problematic as the boat. One thing LDC do well is the gasket kit and glue they supply, but not having access to this I tried that new Ultra power wet grab no nails stuff available at DIY stores. I left it a good 24 hours to cure and it has worked a dream, no sign of lifting or peel back. Hate to think what will happen when I have to get it off, but that's another day. ------------- https://www.ease-distribution.com/" rel="nofollow - https://www.ease-distribution.com/ |
Posted By: Ianphot
Date Posted: 07 May 09 at 11:47am
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Just about to do my Lightning gasket - should be a straightforward job.
Make sure you get as much of the old adhesive off without damaging the gel coat. I used contact adhesive last time with masking tape to mark out the area. Acetone removes old adhesive and make sure everything is clean and dry before applying new adhesive. ------------- Ian Campbell, Oxford |