Dinghy development: Topper replacement foils and 4.2 weight range

Topper replacement foils and 4.2 weight range

Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: Dinghy classes
Forum Name: Dinghy development
Forum Discription: The latest moves in the dinghy market
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13987
Printed Date: 26 Jun 25 at 3:37pm
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Topic: Topper replacement foils and 4.2 weight range

Posted By: CT249
Subject: Topper replacement foils and 4.2 weight range
Date Posted: 02 Nov 22 at 12:10pm

Our club was kindly donated some very old Toppers, now largely replaced for training by Picos. I'm wondering about renovating the Toppers. Their main problem is that the ancient plastic foils are chipped, scarred and beaten.

Given that they are small boats and from what I can recall have thick foils, would I be correct in thinking that plywood ones could be a reasonable and cheap option? The issue is simply strength, and obviously plywood is not ideal - but has anyone had experience with ply foils in similar boats and do they survive or snap?

I know some people can build proper wooden foils easily, but I have too much on my plate and I want to hand the local retired men's woodworking group an easy project in ply (or perhaps solid pine).

Secondly, do people agree with the public weight range of the Topper 4.2 of 35-45kg? That's lighter than the weight ranges claimed for Opti sailors, so I assume Topper are just trying to tip 45kg+ sailors into standard Toppers?

We have no class racing in the very few Toppers in Australia (although not long ago the class claimed we did have lots of active boats in that work of fiction called a World Sailing annual class report) so this isn't about being competitive, just how well the boat will handle and sail in general.

In a way I'd be happy if it felt a bit dull because we don't want kids to spend years hiring out the five club Toppers instead of either buying Lasers or Optis. The Optis are really the only practical junior boats for private ownership in our area and I'm not sure how to get around the issue that younger kids will have to move backwards in speed to get their own boat, which is one reason to make sure the Toppers are not too well refurbished!

Replies:

Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 02 Nov 22 at 3:34pm

They're pretty thick foils, I would have thought ply would be OK, but I think I'd be happier with strips of solid wood. Boats where ply boards work typically have even less shape than Topper foils. Because the original foils are heavy anyway (as you probably know Topper foils sink) you can use the strongest cheap timber available, don't need to consider weight, so you can use a strong hardwood if that's cost effective - or maybe a mix with hardwood front back for damage resistance and in the middle for strength, but the rest in pine.

If you get your club to give them a layer of glass that would be better for durability and freedom from warping, but its a fair old jump in the amount of work required and fairing glass layup isn't the most congenial exercise.

Posted By: Riv
Date Posted: 02 Nov 22 at 7:20pm

Topper foils are quite thick, ply in the UK is available on 3,6,9,12,18 and 25 at my local builders merchants. You'd have to get one that fits without making thinner as that will remove the top longitudinal layers weakening it.
You could laminate some of the others to get a good fit.
However I would go to the local wood machinist and get them to run up a load of trip to the correct thicknesses,laminate it all and shapeit like an Enterprise Centreboard whereabout the front and back third only are shaped.
Easier and more fun. Then just paint.

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Mistral Div II prototype board, Original Windsurfer, Hornet built'74.

Posted By: CT249
Date Posted: 06 Nov 22 at 12:18am

Thanks guys. I will try and find some decent timber but it's not easy in this small town, so we may end up using ply.

Posted By: Oatsandbeans
Date Posted: 06 Nov 22 at 7:18am

If you do it with timber-the best way is to get it bonded up from strips -typically 50mm wide. This way it will remain stable and not warp( sorry to make the job more complicated, but a thick plank of wood will end up like a banana when it takes on a bit of moisture)

Posted By: Chris Bowen
Date Posted: 06 Nov 22 at 8:06am

You need to cut the timber into strips and turn over alternate strips before gluing it back together. It may still warp but the warp in each strip will be small and balance out the warp in the neighbouring strip so that it appears not to warp.

Posted By: Riv
Date Posted: 06 Nov 22 at 12:22pm

I made one out of old Tongue and groove floor boarding. Rip it up into strips, throw away the really knotty bits. Best waterproof PVA from builders merchant worked fine.

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Mistral Div II prototype board, Original Windsurfer, Hornet built'74.

Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 07 Nov 22 at 3:21am

Originally posted by CT249

Thanks guys. I will try and find some decent timber but it's not easy in this small town, so we may end up using ply.

Consider reclaimed timber. Tables, pianos, roof joists, anything made of solid wood. You're in the unusual position of not having to worry about weight. Your retired men's group may well be competent at sourcing reclaimed timber, and should know what timbers would be good. I had a vintage Moth with an oak centreboard! Far too heavy but plenty strong enough. A native equivalent would do for you.

Posted By: RS400atC
Date Posted: 07 Nov 22 at 10:56am

Bear in mind the stress of rightin the boat, medium sized person on the end of the board is a lot of stress for cheap plywood. A layer of glass cloth might be a good answer, you could then get away with cheap plywood? Using what's available cheap or free is one thing, but when you've put time in you don't want it to break. You might start a little industry of replica Topper foils to upset a few zealots on here.....