Boom sheeting RS600?
Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: Dinghy classes
Forum Name: Dinghy development
Forum Discription: The latest moves in the dinghy market
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11519
Printed Date: 15 Jul 25 at 12:31am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Boom sheeting RS600?
Posted By: dohertpk
Subject: Boom sheeting RS600?
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 10:48am
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Hi all, I HATE the swivel jammer on my 600 and I want to replace it with a less capsize-inducing system. Instead of drilling new holes in my hull for new base for my mainsheet block, I was thinking it might be possible to simply lead the main sheet from the boom. Obviously, this wouldn't be class legal but since there are only 3 boats in Ireland (and mine is the only one in the Republic) I'm not too concerned about legality at the minute. Has anyone any suggestions as to how I might be approach rigging her to boom sheet?
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Replies:
Posted By: kneewrecker
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 10:56am
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simple- switch the ratchet off your jammer with one of the two mainsheet blocks on the boom.... a number of us took the cleat and swivel base off the 600s a few years ago and replaced it with a stand-alone standup ratchet block. I'm not sure what current thinking is on this though. It helped get the reaction speeds up a bit... ------------- |
Posted By: dohertpk
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 11:02am
Posted By: dohertpk
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 11:04am
| Cool that's what I was thinking. I unscrewed the swivel jammer from the hull last week and thought it would separate into a 'swivelly bit' and a base and I could just discard the swivelly bit. The whole thing seems to be a complete unit though. Did you have to drill new holes in your hill to fit the new stand-up base? |
Posted By: kneewrecker
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 11:28am
I think I did fill and re-drill rotating 45 deg.... better research into the hole spacing could have saved the hassle no doubt.  ------------- |
Posted By: Neptune
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 1:51pm
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When I sailed them lots of people took the jammers off and replaced the bases with a Harken swivel base or similar (link below) - I think it has same hole centres as a big harken base. If your still finding it hard then try and autoratchet, but you should be able to get that too work.
http://pinbax.com/index.asp?selection=detailed&uid=38484&cg=7&mc=68&cct=4&sc=417" rel="nofollow - Swivel base ------------- Musto Skiff and Solo sailor |
Posted By: dohertpk
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 2:04pm
Posted By: dohertpk
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 2:05pm
| Ah, that's exactly what I'm looking for. To clarify, do you mean it would have the same holes as the ones originally drilled in the hull by the manufacturer for the swivel jammer? Thanks a mil. |
Posted By: kneewrecker
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 2:21pm
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take the holt? one off... take it into a chandlery, or measure it and look at the Harken specs. I imagine (being a harken lifer fanboi) I would have bought a harken one to replace mine, from memory I definitely drilled it.... look at the specifications tab: http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5253" rel="nofollow - http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5253 http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5226" rel="nofollow - http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5226
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Posted By: Neptune
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 3:49pm
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If the holes don't match Dohertpk just do as kneewrecker said, fill old holes and rotate it 45 degrees. Big lump of wood under there so it doesn't matter where holes go and you'll get a nice new grip on the screws too. ------------- Musto Skiff and Solo sailor |
Posted By: dogslife
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 5:04pm
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One word of caution about 'big blocks of wood'.
A mate of mine decide to change the spini halyard cleat on his RS500 the other weekend. Having removed the first screw he merrily unscrewed the second. Just as it became free he heard a clunk. Yep you guessed it, it was the wooden block! Much cursing and the fitting of an inspection hatch later he was finally able to fit his nice new cleat.....:-) So it just might be worth trying to establish if the 'big wooden block' is firmly attached on your 600............. |
Posted By: kneewrecker
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 5:41pm
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500 not the same build quality as a 6 ;-) ------------- |
Posted By: dohertpk
Date Posted: 19 Jun 14 at 10:57pm
| Thanks a mil for you input guys. Just back from a sail there; that little swivelly yoke has to go. While I have you, when you were sailing a 600, did you ever have a problem with the sail tearing where the bolt rope meets the batten pocket? Just discovered tears on mine for the second time in 8 months and I don't know if I can afford another repair. Is there anything I could be doing wrong in my rigging? |
Posted By: Neptune
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 9:34am
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at the end of the batten pockets....most fully battened sails go there eventually. If you have too much batten tension it will only speed the process, you only need enough tension that the creases come out the sail when you tension the batten and its laying flat on the floor..
Get a sail maker to take mast end batten ends off and put a new slightly heavier gauge bolt rope fabric in place ------------- Musto Skiff and Solo sailor |
Posted By: hobbiteater
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 10:39am
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so heres a question, how much of a OD or measured sail can you repair before its out of class or needs remeasurement? The absolute limit would be every thing apart from the the signed bit, labels etc i guess, but then you can basically design your own sail, where's the line? Triggers broom....
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Posted By: Neptune
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 11:25am
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Part of the issue with the 600 mainsail (and the 200 and old 400) is that the sail fabric was bullet proof. Normally you'd have worn the sail itself out before you needed to worry too much about bolt ropes and things, but these things go on for years. ------------- Musto Skiff and Solo sailor |
Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 11:56am
I think you could probably repair as much as you need, but you'd need to be able to demonstrate that the sail was still the same shape if challenged - from the RS rules:
If I were faced with a protest on the subject then I'd lay out 3 or 4 unmodified sails alongside the repaired one and measure panel widths etc at a some essentially random points, and if it doesn't fall within the range of the others then it would be out. |
Posted By: hobbiteater
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 1:37pm
| thanks |
Posted By: craiggo
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 5:04pm
| I never understood people's issue with the mainsheet swivel and cleat on the 600. |
Posted By: dohertpk
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 6:20pm
| Well I can't speak for others but for me it's an issue of familiarity and competence. I'm only recently out of a Laser (and before that Picos) so I'm not used to having a cleat on the main. Too, I find that everything tends to get wrapped around the 'arm' on the jammer at the most inopportune moments. |
Posted By: kneewrecker
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 6:42pm
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I found in the shifty inland wind i was far too slow to react with the cleat. ------------- |
Posted By: pondlife1736
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 8:37pm
| Sorry to hijack the thread, but has anybody removed/know how to remove the jammer on the EPS? |
Posted By: craiggo
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 9:50pm
| I'll take a guess....... undo the screws? |
Posted By: pondlife1736
Date Posted: 20 Jun 14 at 11:40pm
you're a genius I meant remove the arm as well and retain the pulley!
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Posted By: craiggo
Date Posted: 21 Jun 14 at 9:36pm
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Why thank you.
It depends on the brand, but un screw the base from the hull. You normally have to rotate the swivel and take each screw it in turn. Unshackle the block and spring. Fill the holes in the hull. Either buy a swivel base without cleat swivel and secure that onto the boat, or use an eyelet and screw that down, then shackle the block to it. |
Posted By: pondlife1736
Date Posted: 22 Jun 14 at 5:57pm
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It's a Ronstan swivel base. I took it off the boat today to dismantle it and get the cleat arm off. No problem in principle, just needed an extra spacer. To anyone doing the same, be aware that there are about a million loose plastic ball bearings in there. They flew off to the darkest corners of the garage as I pulled the races apart. Retrieving them was by far the longest part of the job!
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