Technique: RS200 Elastic Forestay

Print Page | Close Window

RS200 Elastic Forestay

Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: Dinghy classes
Forum Name: Technique
Forum Discription: 'How to' section for dinghy questions and answers
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10971
Printed Date: 27 Jun 25 at 2:39pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: RS200 Elastic Forestay

Posted By: JVSAIL
Subject: RS200 Elastic Forestay
Date Posted: 16 Jul 13 at 2:40pm

I was looking around the association site and noticed this and wondered if any one knew how to rig it? As I spent a fair amount of time unrigging my forestay and attaching it to the mast each time I sail as I find it gets in the way when gybeing if its very slack, and thought this could possibly solve those problems?

Replies:

Posted By: Rupert
Date Posted: 16 Jul 13 at 5:28pm

I used to have one in a Firefly - simply elastic replacing the rope lashing at the bottom, which allowed the mast rake to be altered whilst sailing without the forestay going lose. These days, I just have it slack, but I don't have a spinny to worry about.

With a deck stepped mast I can see you might need a stopper rope...

-------------
Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686

Posted By: marke
Date Posted: 16 Jul 13 at 8:50pm

I've seen it done a couple of ways. First tie a bit of thin rope so that it tight when you set the mast in its furthest raked position (the fresh and frightening setting). The tie 4mm shockcord on the eye bolt up through the eye on the end of the forestay, back through the eye bolt and then lead it back to the spinnaker chute moulding. Drill a small hole, push the shockcord through and tie a stopper knot.

The other approach is seize stretched shockcord onto the forestay so that when the forestay is slack it takes up the slack. I've seen this done on 470s - usually some way up the forestay.

Posted By: craiggo
Date Posted: 16 Jul 13 at 10:12pm

On my Grad, the wire goes through a terminal slot in the front of the mast, but instead of having a terminal on the wire there is just a very small swaged loop. Inside the mast is about a foot length of shockcord tied to the swaged loop on the end of the forestay with the other end poked through a small drilled hole further up the mast and dead ended with a stopper knot.
Its enough to stop the mast falling down in the dinghy park and remains taught regardless of rake or rig tension.

Posted By: hum3
Date Posted: 17 Jul 13 at 1:12pm

Another way:

1) Drill 4-5mm hole near bottom of chute moulding, in line between forestay deck eye and mast step

2) Pass 4mm bungee through hole, and tie off on front of mast step

3) Tie 3mm(ish) rope to forestay

4) Pass 3mm(ish) rope through forestay deck eye, and then through eye holding pole on deck

5) Tie stopper knot behind 'pole deck eye' (leave a few cm margin)(stops mast falling over)

6) Tie bungee and rope together

7) Adjust as required.

Posted By: transient
Date Posted: 17 Jul 13 at 2:34pm

Also a newish 200 sailor. Thanks for that description Hum3, boats in the garage at the mo and I think I'll give it a go.

That floppy forestay is a right pain and the method I've used on previous boats doesn't seem suitable on an otherwise already cramped and cluttered boweye.

Posted By: hum3
Date Posted: 17 Jul 13 at 5:14pm

Another top tip once you've done the mod - as you tie the forestay on first, be careful how you shackle the jib on in relation to the forestay rope. I've lost count of the number of times I've pulled the rig tension on, only to find that I've trapped the forestay rope between the shackle and the eye, meaning the elasticated system is caught.

I usually shackle on the jib, lift the rope underneath the shackle, and then pull the rig tension on.

A further benefit of using the elasticated forestay, is that it gives you instant feedback on your rake. You'll get to learn where the end of your forestay sits in relation to the shackle for a given setting (you tape it up each time you go sailing!). I'm part of the mono-setting crowd, so I know my rake is 'right' even if I swap jibs etc and I've checked the rig tension (which is very quick and easy to measure!)

Posted By: hum3
Date Posted: 17 Jul 13 at 5:22pm

Oh - and be careful about re-tying the forestay rope with the rig tension on. If you pull the rope to the stopper knot with the rig tension on, and then tie the forestay tight, when you let the rig tension off, there will be no slack in the system to allow the mast to drop backwards. No need to run 300+ lbs tension through your forestay.

And FINALLY, undo the tape on the jib shackle etc before you let the rig tension off. If you don't, the forestay eye causes the tape to ride up and bunch something chronic. Unpicking bunched up tape is not the sort of activity you want to do with cold hands!

Posted By: fab100
Date Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 11:39pm

I'm afraid mine is even more OTT

Spliced a loop in a length of 2mm Spec12 around forestry eye, thru jib tack deck eye and pole ss loop as above

Another bit of spec12 is tied onto mast step. Other end passes thru aforementioned hole in chute moulding and terminates in a bobble. Under the kite sock, I passed a bit of shock cord thu each end of this line, so that the elastic keeps it tight and pulls the bobble aft.

When rigging, put mast up, attach shrouds then reeve forestay line as above and wrap loop around bobble. Easy to put mast up solo and keeps forestay tight as long as you get the lengths right.

Finally, don't use a shackle on the jib tack but a http://clubsailor.co.uk/wp/bimbles/rs200-bimbles/" rel="nofollow - RWO quick link saves no end of hassle and snags

-------------
http://clubsailor.co.uk/wp/club-sailor-from-back-to-front/" rel="nofollow - Great book for Club Sailors here

Posted By: JVSAIL
Date Posted: 19 Jul 13 at 12:00pm

Cheers guys I will have a play this weekend