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    Posted: 10 Mar 05 at 1:34pm

There is a big difference between the resin types used and the effect that they have on a boat life.

When the boat flexes both the resin and the fibers strech the problem with Polyester resin boats is that the resin is not quite as stretchy as the glass so as the boat flexes you get micro cracking of the resin. this is largely what makes a boat go soft with age.

Epoxy is much better as it can strech futher before failing plus it absorbs much less water than polyester resins and does not smell as bad when curing. Unfortunately it is more expensive.

 

If it doesn't break it's too heavy; if it does it wasn't built right
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Post Options Post Options   Quote flat is fast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 05 at 11:01pm
i have completly restored a boat and it wasnt that hard. however it did take me 3 months but i was 16 at the time so i didnt think i did that bad! plus these days epoxy is far better than it used to be west and sp are just so much stronger. They dont use castermite much now because it goes brittle with age but sp and west altho expencive last longer and hold stronger.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote sailorguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 05 at 9:20pm
don't composite boats only need looking after at the end of their lives, whereas a woodeen boat need to be looked after all its life
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 05 at 5:13pm
Originally posted by Blobby

So ultimately it would appear that composite construction would be fastest as you can build a lighter, stiffer boat...and I am conveniently ignoring all the class specific issues with that generalisation!

Yes, but don't forget the class specific issues are very very important!

Originally posted by flat is fast

wood is far better because when it gets wet you can always dry it out and when plastic boats start to delaminate wooden ones can be maintained with alot more ease

Obviously a man who's never had to deal with delaminating plywood, or thirty year old wodd boats where the aerolite has gone brittle and is letting go!

Wood is still a fine boatbuilding material, and if you are building a boat for the pleasure of working with the materials and seeing the finished object then I prefer it to epoxy/foam. I have a wood boat, a wood decked foam boat and an all foam boat, snd there's no doubt in my mind that the all foam boat is far less hassle to maintain as well as needing less work.

Nowadays I would almost always build only consider ply for a quick knock up/throwaway boat to try something out and even then there would be a lot of glass carbon/epoxy in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote flat is fast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 05 at 10:29am
wood is far better because when it gets wet you can always dry it out and when plastic boats start to delaminate wooden ones can be maintained with alot more ease
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Blobby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 05 at 5:37am

Originally posted by JimC


50kg (the Cherub hull weight) is a bit of a struggle for a wood boat, although I have a 1971ish boat that is still pretty much down to weight and quite usable. 50kg is quite easily attained with a foam/good quality glass boat, and carbon boats by experienced builders have come out nearer 40kg which means a fair bit of lead to find a home for.

So ultimately it would appear that composite construction would be fastest as you can build a lighter, stiffer boat...and I am conveniently ignoring all the class specific issues with that generalisation!

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Post Options Post Options   Quote JimC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 05 at 7:24pm
Originally posted by carshalton fc

arnt some cherubs made of wood?  i know they know make them from carbon tho.


The last wood Cherub I know of was built about 1996. Curiously it was built by the same guy who made the first foam Cherub in the UK* in 1970.

Foam sandwich is preferred by the majority because its a lot easier for an amateur builder to build a light strong foam sandwich boat than a ligfht strong wood one.

50kg (the Cherub hull weight) is a bit of a struggle for a wood boat, although I have a 1971ish boat that is still pretty much down to weight and quite usable. 50kg is quite easily attained with a foam/good quality glass boat, and carbon boats by experienced builders have come out nearer 40kg which means a fair bit of lead to find a home for.
A lot depends how much interior structure you put in though. A minimal interior is obviously light, but critical on materials, whereas if you have a bit more structure its always going t be heavier, but a lot easier to get it plenty stiff enough for the insane rig loads used.

As for why wood or plastic is faster, itr almost certainly comes down to stiffness. The two materials have significantly different properties so require to ba handled in different ways. There's both panel stiffness and bend resistance to consider - panel stiffness probably affects how it goes through waves, bend resistance is not only about rig tension, but also about how much the boat twists with the crew sitting out at the back of the boat, but the load the otherway coming from the daggerboard in the middle.

JimC

*first foam Cherub in the UK, not the world, the worlds forst foam sandwich Cherub was built in 1969 by Russ Bowler (now partner in Farr Yacht design). I think these were among the first foam sandwich boats built anywhere by anyone.

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Post Options Post Options   Quote Granite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 05 at 1:31pm

For Mass production once you have the molds it is cheaper to make foils out of fiberglass with a foam core in two halfs and stick them together This can make quite a good blade but if done badly they can be terible and care has to be taken to keep the weight down.

For smaller production runs and better performance it is eisier to shape the core out of wood you can mix the types of wood to give different ammounts of flex in different areas of the foils. the blade can then be sheithed with glass or carbon for improved strength. You can make quite light foils this way.

If you want to go realy light then you need to use Carbon sheith over a foam or possably light wood such as balsa, although you usualy need a wooden peice in the center of the foil to stop the foam from crushing around the bottom of the stock. The carbon cloth also needs to be placed carefully to get the right ammount of flex

 

 

If it doesn't break it's too heavy; if it does it wasn't built right
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Post Options Post Options   Quote carshalton fc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 05 at 12:59pm
yer but lioke phil said well varnished would is the same as gel coat. so maybe wooden foils would be no different.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote sailorguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 05 at 9:10pm
if you had a wood hull and fibreglass foils and you hit the shore, wouldn't the hull surrounding the daggerboard case split. personaly i would prefer to have to get a new dagger board than a new hull
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