A question for those in the know!

What affects the ability of a dinghy to point well when on a beat?

It depends on the class. What class are you asking about?

In most cases there is little that you can do about drag, hull shape etc - without going to a load of expense; particularly in a one design class.

In practice, the biggest single difference will be mainsail leach tension.  The more leach tension that you apply, the higher you will point (at the expense of boat speed) and vice versa.  The issue therefore is to find the ideal compromise between pointing and boat speed to achieve max VMG.

Boats such as B14s, RS800s and Int 14s etc will generally benefit from footing when planing conditions apply whereas Lasers and other non planing boats would probably want to be sailed higher.

With all of this however is the need to keep boat speed up by footing off and then luffiing once at optimum speed.  As speed reduces, then foot again.  The amount you will need to foot/luff is thus boat specific.

Cheers

I remember sailing a Cherub a few years ago which had a 6 ft long by 9 inch board.  It never got up to the mark in the lulls, but in the puffs it went like the proverbial and if it persisted I always ended up overstanding!

But the previous replies are right, its down to good sails and a good set of foils and a hull which doesn't cause too much drag and (this is often forgotten) a rig which doesn't cause to much drag.

But I have seen many a novice blame his boat for not pointing, whereas in fact he was on the wrong wind shift.  Here's a simple explanation for those prepared to get the graph paper out and work out the subtleties.  When you are being lifted your boat feels like its outpointing those ahead and when you are headed you can convince yourself your boat is not pointing.  But if you look over your shoulder the truth will be revealed!

Here's another aspect of this pointing business.  I sail a 4000 which above about f4 planes to windward quite fast, so when I have to overtake a boat in front I'm inclined to drive rather than point.  I recall passing a 400 in this fashion and after a few minutes I tacked and crossed in front of him.  Back in the bar afterwards he commented on how well my boat pointed - what he meant was how well my boat went to windward, not quite the same thing!

Pointing ability is, like all tuning issues, dependant on the interaction of a huge number of factors.

Mainsail leech tension has already been mentioned. On a boat like my FD, with a centre main and traveller, this is controlled in moderate breezes by mainsheet tension. As you wind on the leech tension, you also straighten the genoa luff - good thing, also aids pointing. However, as mainsail leech tension increases, you also pull the mast aft from the hounds upwards. This will free the genoa luff and widen the slot - bad thing, hurts pointing. In an FD which will plane to windward in 10 knots, pointing is crucial as the boat can feel great sailed free, but you can find yourself reaching around the ocean, going warp factor 9 but travelling 10 times further than anyone else! This is often simply due to the leeches being too soft. Tighten the leeches and what happens? You're overpowered, main is backwinded by the huge genoa, boat is slow and therefore the foils dont work as well. You're pointing in the right direction now, but slower than a slug on crutches and making a ton of leeway!

What I'm trying to say, in a longwinded and roundabout way, is the whole thing is a balancing act. If your boat doesn't point, first thing to check is the nut on the end of the tiller!

Neil

Sail your boat bolt upright is a good start.

In all classes I have sailed I have been known as a "stuffer" rather than a "footer" and I think it's down to style.

Sail upright and when you get a gust luff rather than ease the sheets. This works well for me but I start to struggle when it's over 15 knots - I need to switch to a footer at that point.

You should also be able to swith between modes as tactics require ...

Here's my 2p worth.  In boats like the Laser it pays to stuff in the gusts, but in faster boats (say PY less than 925) it gets more complicated.  Below a certain windspeed you still stuff in the gusts because the added speed is not enough to compensate for the extra distance of sailing lower.  However above a certain windspeed its faster to switch to driving in the gusts.  You certainly sail lower than those that stuff but you sail so much faster and you find yourself luffing in the lulls. 

Your crew must be aware of this method because he's going to need to be more energetic.  When you luff in the lulls he may have to come in off the trapeze but in the gusts you are deliberately going to power off so he must be out there before the boat heels.  The helm too has to work harder, that mainsheet will be drawn in as you luff in the lulls and may then have to be eased as the boat loses speed.  In the puffs it must be eased instantly to keep the boat flat and then drawn in as the boat speed is established.  The leach is highly loaded during this phase and the mainsheet will be heavy.

I find the rig needs to be correctlyset for this style.  It doesn't work if the rig is not able to flex in the gusts.  So on my boat I could have more power by tightening the lowers but then I find it staggers in the gusts rather than accelerates (its pretty subtle but with experience it is noticeable).  A little bit of mast bend and flexibility helps the boat naturally open its leach in the gusts and provides a transition which gives the crew time to get in and out and keep the boat flat.

yeah, the apparent wind will go well aft. Also any boat will plane give hurricane Katrina, but a tasar will go upwind on the plane in 9 knts of breeze and a 49er in around 5 or 6.