Loose rivets on eye for kicker take-off
Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: General
Forum Name: Repair & maintenance
Forum Discription: Questions & tips on the subject
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7133
Printed Date: 07 Aug 25 at 7:47pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Loose rivets on eye for kicker take-off
Posted By: Wobble
Subject: Loose rivets on eye for kicker take-off
Date Posted: 12 Sep 10 at 6:30pm
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I put an eye for the kicker take-off on my Flying Fifteen mast using 5ml rivets but with a 6ml* drill, in an emergency repair. Now, inevitably, the rivets are loose and the fitting is wobbling about. I'd like to drill bigger holes for bigger rivets, this time matching the bit to the rivet size. I suspect I may have to go considerably bigger, as the movement has probably enlarged the existing holes still further.  Can I ask if anyone knows the maximum size rivet normally used for this job. Also would really appreciate it if anyone has general advice for riveting fittings to aluminium masts so that I don't have to drill more holes, as I'm running out of room! * My best guess from memory on sizes. Maybe they were different -- but I do know the drill bit used was too big.  |
Replies:
Posted By: timeintheboat
Date Posted: 12 Sep 10 at 6:48pm
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Any reason why it can't be bolted? I had a similar problem with spreader rivets. A bit of fiddling with some thread and I managed to bolt it and while I was at it the kicker tang
------------- Like some other things - sailing is more enjoyable when you do it with someone else |
Posted By: Wobble
Date Posted: 12 Sep 10 at 7:03pm
| Hmm... I wouldn't try bolting as I don't have access to the far side for a nut! |
Posted By: timeintheboat
Date Posted: 12 Sep 10 at 9:00pm
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Err no. Take the mast foot off and pull the bolt up the mast using thin cotton tied in the thread. I dropped a needle through the hole tied to the thread at the end. Use tweezers or the ilk to pull the bolt through the hole, bolt from the outside and trim the bolt. For the spreaders I had the mast up against the house and a ladder up next to it. ------------- Like some other things - sailing is more enjoyable when you do it with someone else |
Posted By: GybeFunny
Date Posted: 13 Sep 10 at 12:58pm
Thanks for that explanation, I had heard about using thread before but never knew how, it didnt occur to me to have the bolt on the inside! But how do you hold the back of the bolt that is inside the mast while you tighten the nut?
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Posted By: Wobble
Date Posted: 13 Sep 10 at 12:58pm
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Thanks Timeintheboat. I see what you mean now. I suppose that would be a good method, probably better in the long run, but I would prefer to stick to rivets, provided I can use the same holes. I think it will work ok if I do a proper job, unlike last time! |
Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 13 Sep 10 at 2:44pm
| If the number of rivets against the load is marginal then they always will work loose. Poprivets really are a rather crude solution... If you are using a cascade kicker then you can split the load to multiple anchor points whioh will bring the loads under control. Ultimately though bolts, especially with reasonable size washers on, are a far better solution even if they are a pain to fit. |
Posted By: Wobble
Date Posted: 13 Sep 10 at 5:04pm
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Kicker is cascaded and does indeed have two anchor points... just the one giving trouble. |
Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 13 Sep 10 at 6:09pm
| But could you split that down? I've used three points on a boat that had really serious kicker loads... |
Posted By: English Dave
Date Posted: 13 Sep 10 at 6:10pm
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Have a look at rawlnuts here: http://www.rawlplug.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=83&Itemid=0 - http://www.rawlplug.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=83&Itemid=0 I use them on bits of the main beam of the Hurricane that I can't reach. They expand behind the hole as you tighten - just like a rivet I guess. Also the outer is made of rubber so so electrolytic corrosion. I've been using them for a couple of years now in salt water environment with no problems. ------------- English Dave http://www.ballyholme.com - Ballyholme Yacht Club (You'd think I'd be better at it by now) Hurricane 5.9 SX RS700 |
Posted By: Medway Maniac
Date Posted: 13 Sep 10 at 8:01pm
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[QUOTE=English Dave]Have a look at rawlnuts here: http://www.rawlplug.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=83&Itemid=0%20%5b/QUOTE - http://www.rawlplug.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=83&Itemid=0
[ /QUOTE]
Ah, what nostalgia! I used those years ago to anchor my crew's toe-straps on a boat wherein the builder had omitted the underfloor wood blocks at the appropriate foreward points.
Once a year I'd see my crew disappear backwards over the side when the rubber let go. He always laughed and never complained - they made 'em tough in those days! ------------- http://www.wilsoniansc.org.uk" rel="nofollow - Wilsonian SC http://www.3000class.org.uk" rel="nofollow - 3000 Class |
Posted By: English Dave
Date Posted: 14 Sep 10 at 1:56pm
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I'll wait and see then, Medway! The rawlnut holds the spinlock for the spinnaker halyhard in place. The load is mainly shear. The design of the spinlock means it's difficult to get a rivet gun in to use a pop-rivet and I have previously used self-tappers. This has proved the best option so far! ------------- English Dave http://www.ballyholme.com - Ballyholme Yacht Club (You'd think I'd be better at it by now) Hurricane 5.9 SX RS700 |
Posted By: Rupert
Date Posted: 15 Sep 10 at 4:11pm
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The kicker take off point on my new Proctor mast was bolted right through the mast, front to back, which seems like a strong solution.
Previously, I've but the fixing point on the back on the mast and brought a strop round to the front, like you often see on booms these days. ------------- Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686 |
Posted By: Wobble
Date Posted: 15 Sep 10 at 7:19pm
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Sounds more up to the load than rubber! Still, I'd like to keep things as simple as possible and go with bigger rivets in the enlarged holes. (The bolt and thread method, along with fitting from the back of the mast, are good options if it doesn't pan out). |