Print Page | Close Window

Building to optimise performance

Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: Dinghy classes
Forum Name: Dinghy development
Forum Discription: The latest moves in the dinghy market
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2473
Printed Date: 18 Aug 25 at 5:45am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Building to optimise performance
Posted By: ifoxwell
Subject: Building to optimise performance
Date Posted: 30 Nov 06 at 10:18pm

When those that are in the no build a boat to a one design rule like a solo what dimensions do they tweak to the max or min to optimise performance.

 

Are all boats different or  is it the same basic tweaks that are always made?

 

Ian




Replies:
Posted By: Isis
Date Posted: 01 Dec 06 at 9:23am
Most of the old one designs have tolerences built into their rules which would normally be a set of dimensions plus or minus one inch I beleive. These were put in to enable the boats to be easier to home build but as you say they can be used to tweak performance. Theres no specific method of designing a fast boat though unfortunately. If anyone discovers one can you let me know asap as its gonna make the next few years at uni a damn sight easier....


-------------


Posted By: foaminatthedeck
Date Posted: 01 Dec 06 at 10:58am

Don't some of classes have a rule which states that if you build using the tolerances to opermise speed then the boat will not measure?

There was a chap at a contender open meeting early this year who wanted to build a contender that would carry weight better. Not sure how that worked out though.



-------------
Lark 2170


Posted By: Isis
Date Posted: 01 Dec 06 at 1:35pm
Originally posted by foaminatthedeck

Don't some of classes have a rule which states that if you build using the tolerances to opermise speed then the boat will not measure?



How can you define the difference between a boat built to optimise speed and a boat not built to the exact dimensions by builder error though? very tricky situation....


-------------


Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 01 Dec 06 at 1:52pm
Yeah, sounds a little subjective to me.

-------------
Laser 203001, Harrier (H+) 36


Posted By: Ian99
Date Posted: 01 Dec 06 at 5:15pm
I'm totally sure how it applies, but with FRP moulded boats (i.e. pretty much everything these days!), the builder has to be approved as an authorised builder for the class. Part of this involves measuring the mould and a sample boat, and in some classes, if the mould is right on the limits, "authorised builder" status sometimes isn't forthcoming....

In theory, I think this has more to do with preventing boats that don't measure due to a very small manufacturing difference being sold, and the new owners then being told their shiny boat doesn't measure. My Fireball was right on the limit on the forward rocker station and a number of other measurements, but provided the builder can consistently build them to within a much smaller tolerance (I think they can manage down to about 1.5mm, but someone who actually builds boats might know better!) than allowed for in the rules there's nothing wrong with this.



Posted By: Lukepiewalker
Date Posted: 01 Dec 06 at 5:55pm
If a builder sells you a boat that desn't measure you take it back and they build you one that does.
In fact it is enshrined in the Finn class rules that if your new hull doesn't measure they have to take it back (as long as it was measured within a year of being built)

Obviously it isn't in the builders interests to build boats that then have to be replaced,  nor is it in the classes interests to lose builders, so I suspect as Ian says most will have certified moulds before they start churning out the final product...


Posted By: TeamFugu
Date Posted: 01 Dec 06 at 6:31pm
Actually the Swift has rather close tolerances. I don't think a couple cm in rocker change would make a big enough difference. You would probably have to be a much better builder than average to gain much but then as with most things, a flat bottom might be faster off the wind but then you'll suffer a bit up wind unless you race in flat water. You might minimize the bow volume for windward performance but then you'll dive more off the wind.

I think the biggest gains are to be had in quality of the software on top of the water than any adjustments you can make under the water.

This will differ for boats that allow wide tolerances but some will not allow too much variance.

-------------
Live large, love life, and sail fast.
Swift Sol Home, http://swiftsolo.com


Posted By: I luv Wight
Date Posted: 01 Dec 06 at 9:13pm
The Solo class has rules that allow for so-called amateur building tolerances (mostly at about ± 25mm ), but also say that these tolerances cannot be used deliberately!
So you can only build to the fast shape ( whatever that might be ) by accident or incompetence, and you are not allowed to do it intentionally.


Posted By: a_stevo
Date Posted: 01 Dec 06 at 11:43pm

generally people try to minimse waterline beam and wetted surface. whilst keeping the lines nice and straight.

lots of compromises and things to weigh up. and you can never have the best hull for every condiotion



Posted By: Iain C
Date Posted: 02 Dec 06 at 12:26am

The Fireball (designer Peter Milne) was a fairly relaxed design in the sixties to allow for some home building tolerance.  However in the late eighties (I beleive) the Aussies realised that there was a LOT of room for manouvre in the forward sections and designed a wider-bow boat called Missile which whupped the ass of anything else in the windy stuff at sea in waves.  I think that this was then refined by Delange in a boat called Crocodile JD which then formed the mould of the all-conquering Winder design that has been dominant for the last 10 years.

Basically by exploiting the bow section tolerance the boat was made much more bouyant and far less prone to going through waves rather than over them.  It's not that noticable until you park an old (narrow) and new (wide) bow boat next to each other where it becomes very clear.  However although fantastic at sea, the wide boats are technically slower on inland waters and feel a bit "slappy" in chop.  But you have SO much more confidence in them when the chips are down in a blow!

Any real Fireball experts please feel free to correct me on the order the boats were produced above!



-------------
RS700 GBR922 "Wirespeed"
Fireball GBR14474 "Eleven Parsecs"
Enterprise GBR21970
Bavaria 32 GBR4755L "Adastra"


Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 02 Dec 06 at 4:23pm

Well I can think of 2 classes where 'near the limit' dimensions are relevant not because they are faster alround but the difference in performance is significant because the plane at a lower speed.

When the Hornet class started having glass or cold-mouded wooden boats they tweaked the shape at the bow to increase volume and flatten it a bit and this maked it plane earlier - this was the Revolution (or Revvo) design.

There was also an Albacore builder (Kingsfield) who build some boats which were either very close to the tolerance or even outside it but there were so many build before they measured them that they got a special dispensation from the assoc to race. These boats also plane earlier and are very difficult to get hold of as the owners mostly keep hold of them!



-------------
Laser 203001, Harrier (H+) 36


Posted By: TeamFugu
Date Posted: 02 Dec 06 at 4:25pm
All that being said. I've seen some guys sail very fast in what was concidered to be very slow at the time. In stressing one point of sail over another, you would tend to enhance performance in one area and degrade it in another. Now do you help your strong point of sail to be stronger or do you help out your weak points?

Time spent on the water vs. time spent pondering this question would be a better use of time. But then with temps < 0 C and snow on the ground, what other options are there?

-------------
Live large, love life, and sail fast.
Swift Sol Home, http://swiftsolo.com


Posted By: redback
Date Posted: 02 Dec 06 at 8:53pm

Back in the late 70s Scorpions were moving towards less rocker both in the keel and in the chines.  I suspect this made them inclined to plane earlier and possibly faster, however they seemed less able to carry wieght.  I've a feeling they where slightly less vee'd at the transom.

Recently I sailed the 59er this like the 29er and the 49er has a very narrow waterline under the mast and fine entry.  These boats move from non-planing to planing with hardly any transition and when planing slice along very cleanly.  They don't seem to be going as fast as they are.  Yet they aren't too unstable because they are quite flat towards the stern.

I'm really impressed with the hulls but feel they don't tolerate heel very well - but thats correct for proper racing boat design.  If you look at older designs the maximum waterline width is further forward but they can be sailed on their ear.

I conclude that if you have an old design boat with some tolerances it should be built with fine front sections, as little rocker as possible and flat around the stern.  The only thing to watch is that you are not heavy and you are very mobile in the fore and aft direction, you keep the boat flat and you don't sail in light winds.

I sail a 4000 which is not very flat at the stern and not very stabile.  I wonder if the designer (Phil Morrison) reads this forum and if now, in retrospect would make the rear a little flatter?  I would have thought so.



Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 02 Dec 06 at 10:20pm
Originally posted by redback

if now, in retrospect would make the rear a little flatter?  I would have thought so.


Bearig in mind the 4 tonner is already pretty sticky in the light ore wetted surface at the transom might not be a good move!


Posted By: CurlyBen
Date Posted: 02 Dec 06 at 10:27pm
Originally posted by redback

I'm really impressed with the hulls but feel they don't tolerate heel very well - but thats correct for proper racing boat design.  If you look at older designs the maximum waterline width is further forward but they can be sailed on their ear.



It's also got a very big rig and a relatively small rudder, which I suspect plays a major part in their intolerance of heel. Being beamy means the wing hits the water at a lesser angle of heel than the gunwhale of a narrower boat as well.


-------------
RS800 GBR848
Weston SC


Posted By: redback
Date Posted: 04 Dec 06 at 9:36pm

JimC, I sure you're right about that.  Just a bit more important to keep the weight well forward in the light stuff.

I notice the 800 is quite capable of being beaten boat for boat by the 4000 when it gets really light.  They have flatter sterns but unfortunately they also collect water in the cockpit.  However having sailed one I know its the small centreboard that really kills it.  The 4000 has quite a big board for its size.

Mind you this is all academic since both boats are dogs at these low wind speeds and really the best place to be is in the bar.



Posted By: CurlyBen
Date Posted: 04 Dec 06 at 9:59pm
Just mentioned this in the cherub's thread but another factor with the 800 in light winds is the lack of a fully battened main. We had a race where the 4ks annihilated the 800s - the wing wang helped as well, in the 800s we goosewinged and left the kite in the bag downwind! It was only about 2-3kts though.

-------------
RS800 GBR848
Weston SC


Posted By: redback
Date Posted: 04 Dec 06 at 10:43pm

I really don't want to knock Cherubs but when I sailed on it was really poor in the lulls, slow and lots of leeway.  However a little puff got the crew out on the wire and it was fantastic, naturally it was faster but the real impression it made with me was that suddenly it pointed very well.

It was a similar problem to sailing an asymmetric downwind in gusty conditions.  If you get a gust you can sail deep and fast but in the lulls you might have to put a couple of extra gybes in.  The Cherub was like that upwind, sometime you were struggling to lay the mark and then you get a gust and you overstand!

Definitely optimised for wind.



Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 04 Dec 06 at 11:18pm
You can't really judge on one boat - its really rather easy to set up a Cherub up very badly, especially upwind.


Posted By: Merlinboy
Date Posted: 05 Dec 06 at 1:55pm

There was also an Albacore builder (Kingsfield) who build some boats which were either very close to the tolerance or even outside it but there were so many build before they measured them that they got a special dispensation from the assoc to race. These boats also plane earlier and are very difficult to get hold of as the owners mostly keep hold of them!

 

Matt Allot of the kingsfield albacores didnt measure and had to be modified to measure, they are fast planing boats but still not as quick allround as the old woof design which is allot better all round and still the bench mark for the rest of the albacore fleet here and ovver the pond.kings fields are only hard to get hold of because there wasnt many made.  They do still come up for sale, but there is always very very few albacores available forsale.

 

I also seem to remeber when i owned a solo, the association inspecting speed boats through complaint's from other solo sailers about how the distributed the weight of there frp boats, this was proved incorrect but it makes you wonder, how far these builders push to the limits.



-------------



Print Page | Close Window

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2010 Web Wiz - http://www.webwizguide.com