The Ideal Rescue Boat
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Category: Dinghy classes
Forum Name: Dinghy development
Forum Discription: The latest moves in the dinghy market
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2206
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Topic: The Ideal Rescue Boat
Posted By: JimC
Subject: The Ideal Rescue Boat
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 5:30pm
[from freak weather thread, I think I've got the most important posts)
Originally posted by JimC
Originally posted by Lucy Lee
It seems to me that there is really no excuse for anything more than a 10-15hp on a small rib with a soft bow. |
For boat rescue yes. For personal injuries and worse its nice to think you can rapidly reach the shore and proper medical attention. |
Originally posted by Lucy Lee
Hmm not sure I agree. Just trying to think through some possible/ likely personal injuries & appropriate rescue speeds (mind you, I probably am the 'appropriate medical attention' most places I sail!)
1. Head injury: very slow in case of likely concomitant neck trauma
2. Broken / Dislocated bone: very, very slowly to reduce pain!
3. Severe bleeding: depends on the number of people in the boat as someone is going to have apply pressure & elevate if possible and that is very hard if the boat is bouncing or you are driving!
4. Hypothermia: surprisingly slowly to avoid unnecessary movment for casualty & wind chill
5. Drowning / near drowning: This is the only one I can think of where you might want to absolutely floor it rather than attempt CPR in the boat.
I tend to be much more worried about propeller injuries and the monumental problem of getting people into a big rib! I'd also much rather have to deal with any problems like lifting an engine or manually starting one in a smaller boat. I've also had enough incidents with outboards big & small that get stuck in gear or with lousy throttles than rev uncontrollably to be wary of the big ones! |
Originally posted by Iain C
Have to disagree on that one!
First priority on a rescue is counting heads. If you cannot get to a boat quickly enough to see the heads then you might have an issue, as I am sure you know it takes about 3 mins underwater to get brain damage. Even a small RIB will need more than 10hp to plane effectivly upwind in waves.
Assuming then worst case scenario you've abandoned the boat and picked people up to get them ashore and warm, 10-15hp will just simply be not enough. I regularly drive an Avon Searider 5.4 with a 60hp and even then you notice a big difference with 3 in it. Pick up another doublehanded crew (5 in total) and even then you struggle to plane (partly due to the double flooding hull construction of a Searider)
Add towing (windage on a dead boat can be huge) and the fact that you will never power-roll a biggish skiff or cat with 15hp and the argument for power is clear...however the driver MUST have the training and experience to handle it safely and consideratly.
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Originally posted by Jack Sparrow
Like all these things everyones sort of right, aren't they, as it depends on
what venue, prevaling conditions e.t.c
Bigger sea's = bigger boat = bigger engine e.t.c
it's that power to weight ratio thing again.
but a 30hp would do most situations I would of thought on a matched Rib
/ inflatable - Zodiac / Bombard e.t.c
But get on the sea with a big fleet and it's a different matter.
As they said in JAWS - you're gon'a need a bigger boat.
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Originally posted by Calum_Reid
Having driven a 4.5 meter Avon Sea Rider with 30 Hp Four Stroke Engine at the Cherub and Moth National at largo i must say we were strugling to get planing upwind in the waves at times. Not only that but the short rib is manouverable yes but a nightmare in the big waves as you just get thrown about. Whereas the big 7 meter sea rider that had the 90 Hp engine on the bk had no trouble in the waves and was able to be at any capsize well within a minute. Even at the other side of the big course. Neither of these boats are rescue boats but were borrowed from club members to do the job. I personaly feel that the big rib with the big engine was the most useful boat in the fleet.
So yes I agree with Jack Sparow on 'Bigger sea's = bigger boat = bigger engine e.t.c ' |
Originally posted by m_liddell
I agree with the stuff people have said about needing bigger rib/more power in bigger sea state.
Using small ribs with 30hp is fine but dealing with big waves or wayfarer full of water needs a lot more than that. I've given some 30min tows back even with boats like rs800s. |
Originally posted by tornado435
Just a small point coming in late and not reading everything.
The big issue with big ribs is getting in them!! I was unfortunate enough to capsize my hurricane at a large inshore club a while ago. Boat was going onto the lee shore ( hard concrete) I had been thrown clear ( it was a good one). One of the club members had his big ( 7ish metre rib) there and they and I could not get me in it in a rush. In order to save my boat I got them to tow me while in the water, my call but still v dangerous.
I could have easily got into one of the clubs smaller Tornado ribs. I was a relatively fit 31 year old at the time. |
Originally posted by Jack Sparrow
Originally posted by allanorton
Originally posted by JimC
Originally posted by ed490
with a chance of
an unpleasant meeting with the prop. | This is of course an
argument for a more powerful engine, means you can have a prop guard.
It terrifies me working with somone in the water with an unguarded
prop... |
Without a prop guard you will be injured but the body part can be
easily removed or is thrown clewar by the prop, with a prop guard you
cannot remove the body part, and the limb, for example, would be drawn
further into the prop. |
So in short: if you are part of the mortuary clean up team you would
prefer a prop without a guard so you can get home in time for tea?  |
Originally posted by Lucy Lee
Or if you are the only vaguely medically qualified person for miles, wouldn't you prefer a nice small rib the person could get into in the first place?
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Originally posted by JimC
Originally posted by allanorton
with a prop guard you cannot remove the body part |
If you can get the body part in it's not a prop guard is it?
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Replies:
Posted By: Guest
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 5:32pm
Depends on ...
Sea state, wind, tide, depth, driver skill and of course what it is your are trying to rescue ...
On average I'd go for a 5m RIB with a 60 on the back for looking after dinghys.
Rick
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Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 5:37pm
Its all important stuff this. Clearly a propguard that you can get an Oppie sailor sized limb through is worse than useless.
So an ideal Rescue boat would have...
Low sides or at least one low side that you can roll injured folk in with the minimum of lifting and disturbance
A prop guard or protected impeller unit that cannot possibly cause injury, cannot or v difficult snag loose ropes (getting difficult here) and cannot shred sails
Enough speed to get to incidents fast (don't want folk drowning before you get to them)
Steady to not bump the injured too much on return.
Don't want much, do we.
(oh yes, and cheap for poor clubs to buy!)
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Posted By: allanorton
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 5:51pm
I think the hull must be a rib, the tubes do provide good protection against other boats. I also think that a centre console is necessary to give better balace and visibility. Equipment should include knives & wire cutters, radio, possibly a spare bouy with tackle, anchor. "Luxury" items would include GPS and built in radio. Engine should probably be close to the maximum size specified by the hull's manufacturer.
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Posted By: 29er397
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 5:51pm
hang on a mo... Arn't you supposed to kill the engine as soon as you make contact with someone in the water? I may be wrong but that is what i was told on my L2 powerboat course. If that is not the case then surley it is not the design of the rib that is at fault, but the person driving it if it hits some one in the water?
Towing heavy boats is hard enough with the 50hp that we use at my club, i personally wouldn't want to attempt towing boats with anything much less than a 30hp. Apart from that, a bigger engine doesn't mean you have to use it at ful speed when you have a casualty on board, however it is very usefull when you have multiple boats over and need to count heads, especially High performance boats.
A last resort to getting a unable body out of the water is deflating one of the tubes, assuming the hull is stable enough without fulltubes, am i wrong in saying that they are designed to be able to travel with an uninflated tube?
------------- http://www.kielderwatersc.org - Kielder Water Sailing Club
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Posted By: Calum_Reid
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 6:08pm
Fergus you are correct. I'm sure ive heard a case of someone slashing a sponson to roll someone in. Not sure that would be of great use in big waves but I could be wrong.
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Posted By: Granite
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 6:12pm
For small protected water and working with toppers/oppies I like a 4m RIB or dory with about 15-20 HP
For open water I would prefer something like 5.5 -6m with twin 30-40HP and twin fuel tanks should be able to get on the plane with one engine out for when one of them goes down. twin engines also gives great controll for an alongside tow. It is a bit pricy running two engines though.
------------- If it doesn't break it's too heavy; if it does it wasn't built right
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Posted By: gordon
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 6:13pm
Ideally the RIB shouldn't be towing boats. The RIBs are there to ensure the safety of competitors.
The ideal is to have a heavy launch with a good diesel engine for towing boats - I would also like to have such a boat availble for laying marks anywhere where water is deep and tides are strong. In this case a pot-hauling power winch would be a wonderful addition to the boat's gear(dream on)
Gordon
------------- Gordon
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Posted By: BBSCFaithfull
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 6:16pm
I second that fergus! I have done a fair share of resuce duties at bbsc and i have to say that a rib is a perfext safety boat. I personally HATE commandos! they're rubbish safety boats. A rib is versatile and i would rather someone bumped my 14 with a rib than with a dory or commando! And yes when in contact with a casualty or man overboard the engine is turned off!
------------- Greatfully Sponsored By
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Int 14 GBR 1503!!
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Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 6:16pm
Originally posted by 29er397
hang on a mo... Arn't you supposed to kill the engine as soon as you make contact with someone in the water? |
Its certainly what I was taught to do, but people make mistakes, people even fall out of boats, and its a big risk that is well worth reducing.
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Posted By: Jack Sparrow
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 6:17pm
What you really need for power speed economy and safety is a Jet boat!
Nice guarded water intake loads of power and enough speed to get
around the place. Oh and loads of fun for the poor old rescue driver stuck
on it all day!
So something like this would be the ultimate
http://www.aluminium-jet-ribs.co.uk/index.htm
maybe a little smaller thought!
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Posted By: Jack Sparrow
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 6:21pm
In fact I've just found a use for all those annoying jet ski's that endanger
everyone - turn them into jet rescue craft!
http://www.dockitjet.com/ - http://www.dockitjet.com/
in fact you could even have one of those surf rescue tow floats for super
easy crew recovery. And you can get in very shallow.
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Posted By: Granite
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by Jack Sparrow
What you really need for power speed economy and safety is a Jet boat!
Nice guarded water intake loads of power and enough speed to get
around the place. Oh and loads of fun for the poor old rescue driver stuck
on it all day!
So something like this would be the ultimate
http://www.aluminium-jet-ribs.co.uk/index.htm
maybe a little smaller thought!  |
Just watch the steering when you put the reverse buckets down it may just go the oposite way to you expect!
------------- If it doesn't break it's too heavy; if it does it wasn't built right
|
Posted By: Jack Sparrow
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 6:53pm
Originally posted by Granite
Originally posted by Jack Sparrow
What you really need for power speed economy
and safety is a Jet boat!
Nice guarded water intake loads of power and enough speed to get
around the place. Oh and loads of fun for the poor old rescue driver stuck
on it all day!
So something like this would be the ultimate
http://www.aluminium-jet-ribs.co.uk/index.htm
maybe a little smaller thought!  | Just watch the steering when
you put the reverse buckets down it may just go the oposite way to you
expect! |
??????
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Posted By: Iain C
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 9:51pm
Originally posted by gordon
Ideally the RIB shouldn't be towing boats. The RIBs are there to ensure the safety of competitors.
The ideal is to have a heavy launch with a good diesel engine for towing boats - I would also like to have such a boat availble for laying marks anywhere where water is deep and tides are strong. In this case a pot-hauling power winch would be a wonderful addition to the boat's gear(dream on)
Gordon |
Gordon, you can tow "traditional" boat that way, however it's overkill to tow boards/toppers like that (capsize them across the RIBs stern).
You will also struggle to tow a Moth, and some skiffs like a 49er, they tow much better alongside with a wing on the sponson.
My ideal design for a heavy weather boat would be this...
Or for a combined rescue/jury boat, what about this?

------------- RS700 GBR922 "Wirespeed"
Fireball GBR14474 "Eleven Parsecs"
Enterprise GBR21970
Bavaria 32 GBR4755L "Adastra"
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Posted By: zippyRN
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 10:05pm
Originally posted by JimC
Its all important stuff this. Clearly a propguard that you can get an Oppie sailor sized limb through is worse than useless.
So an ideal Rescue boat would have...
Low sides or at least one low side that you can roll injured folk in with the minimum of lifting and disturbance
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what about a bow ramp ?
would be a very good idea for getting people in and out , you could even use it with a long (spine) board
A prop guard or protected impeller unit that cannot possibly cause injury, cannot or v difficult snag loose ropes (getting difficult here) and cannot shred sails
Enough speed to get to incidents fast (don't want folk drowning before you get to them)
Steady to not bump the injured too much on return.
Don't want much, do we.
(oh yes, and cheap for poor clubs to buy!)
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agree with the rest
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Posted By: Prince Buster
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 10:25pm
personally i feel safest on the water (especially if it's really
blowing and a rough wind against tide situation) with a HUGE rib with a
HUGE engine on the back!
The effectiveness of a rescue boat, however, is much more down to who
is driving it. It makes a big difference when someone really
knows what they're doing in a scary on the water situation.....
------------- international moth - "what what?"
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Posted By: Calum_Reid
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 10:27pm
Originally posted by Iain C
Gordon, you can tow "traditional" boat that way, however it's overkill to tow boards/toppers like that (capsize them across the RIBs stern). |
If you capsize them onto the console seat and then sit on the mast you can drive almost flat out and do no damage to the boats. this only really aplicable to plastic little boats like a topper, pico, topaz effort.
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Posted By: Chris Noble
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 11:16pm
lol well you wont do damage to a topper or pico like that but an RS300.... and for my own sake im laeving it like that
------------- http://www.noblemarine.co.uk/home.php3?affid=561 - Competitive Boat Insurance From Noble Marine
FOR SALE:
I14 2 Masts 2 poles 3 Booms, Foils Kites/Mains/Jibs too many to list.
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Posted By: m_liddell
Date Posted: 14 Sep 06 at 11:44pm
Originally posted by Calum_Reid
Originally posted by Iain C
Gordon, you can tow "traditional" boat that way, however it's overkill to tow boards/toppers like that (capsize them across the RIBs stern). |
If you capsize them onto the console seat and then sit on the mast you can drive almost flat out and do no damage to the boats. this only really aplicable to plastic little boats like a topper, pico, topaz effort. |
This works really well. Plus you can leave the sail and foils as they are while towing. I'm not sure it does the two piece masts any good though...
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Posted By: Isis
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 12:13am
Originally posted by Chris Noble
lol well you wont do damage to a topper or pico like that but an RS300.... and for my own sake im laeving it like that |
SHHH!! Dont let them hear you!!!
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Posted By: Calum_Reid
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 1:07am
Originally posted by m_liddell
Originally posted by Calum_Reid
Originally posted by Iain C
Gordon, you can tow "traditional" boat that way, however it's overkill to tow boards/toppers like that (capsize them across the RIBs stern). | If you capsize them onto the console seat and then sit on the mast you can drive almost flat out and do no damage to the boats. this only really aplicable to plastic little boats like a topper, pico, topaz effort. |
This works really well. Plus you can leave the sail and foils as they are while towing. I'm not sure it does the two piece masts any good though... | Nor the mast foot!
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Posted By: les5269
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 7:10am
Originally posted by allanorton
I think the hull must be a rib, the tubes do provide good protection against other boats. I also think that a centre console is necessary to give better balace and visibility. Equipment should include knives & wire cutters, radio, possibly a spare bouy with tackle, anchor. "Luxury" items would include GPS and built in radio. Engine should probably be close to the maximum size specified by the hull's manufacturer.
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All our Ribs have these on board as standard (except GPS but we are a lake)
We have at our club 3 6metre seariders and a 12metre Tornado. I personally prefer the seariders, the flooding hull is a good idea for stability and there is to much windage on the tornado.
All the seariders have 60hp's and the tornado has 80hp (i think ), these are ok for what we ue them for.
------------- 49er 531 & 5000 5025 and a mirror(now gone to mirror heaven)!
http://www.grafham.org/" rel="nofollow - Grafham water Sailing Club The greatest inland sailing in the country
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Posted By: Norbert
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 8:33am
For totally indestructable service with lower-down rescue ramp i have no hesitation in recomending the http://www.caleymarina.com/htm/new_boats/pioner/pioner_multi.html - Pioner Multi
Rescues boats, people and sheep!

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Posted By: Chris Noble
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 10:13am
ive driven one of those things and they are truly horrible rescue boats, you cannot lower the bow ramp unless its flat calm for starters the windage is worse than you can imagine, and the fittigns rip out of them very very easily
------------- http://www.noblemarine.co.uk/home.php3?affid=561 - Competitive Boat Insurance From Noble Marine
FOR SALE:
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Posted By: foaminatthedeck
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 12:10pm
Id suggest there is no perfect safetyboat different situations require different boat. Looking after skiffs with a comando/orange would be unsutable, simmerly looking after a fleet of opies with a large rib is difficult too.
As for propgards they have no redeming features there increae fuel consumption, distroy slow speed manuablityand other bad points depending on the type . If as a saftyboat driver you can't approached some one in the water keeping the prop away from them and turn off the engine when you get there you shouldn't be driving, posisbly Id rather take my chances swimming to shore.
------------- Lark 2170
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Posted By: Rupert
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 12:59pm
We went for prop guards on our dories, with 20hp motors on the back. We have found they make very little difference to manouverability, and as far as fuel ecomomy goes, I'd hate to be the one explaining to a mum that her kid had his leg mangled by a prop to save 1/2p a mile in fuel. Also, in these days of being sued, you are much less likely to be done for negligence if someone looses a finger in a freak propguard accident than you are if the whole hand is lost in a prop. Sad way to look at things, but true.
------------- Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686
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Posted By: ed490
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 1:17pm
Have Y&Y covered Rescue Boat selection in the magazine yet? It could make an interesting article, weighing up the pros and cons of ribs/dories/Pioneer multis/etc, and prop guard/no prop guard. Possibly even suggested boat and engine sizes, and whether it's worth the cash for twin engines?
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Posted By: Ian99
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 7:59pm
The fundamental purpose of most prop guards is to protect the prop from damage if you hit the bottom. They do little if anything to protect people in the water. Consider the following situations:
1: High speed collision. A direct hit is fairly likely to kill someone - though the skeg of the engine or the keel of the boat is just as likely to do the damage.
2: Low speed forwards, boat passes right over the top of the person. This is exceedingly rare, most likely in choppy water where the keel of the boat hitting the casualty's head is easily as big a risk.
3.Low speed forwards or backwards, whilst turning. I once spoke to someone who this happened to (think he said the boat was going backwards) - he was cut pretty badly down one leg and one arm which required quite a few stitches. However he was knocked away by the prop turning round, and firmly believes that had the boat been fitted with a prop guard he would have probably lost his arm as it would have become trapped.
For inland waters, by far the best risk mitigation is to use a tiller driven boat. This serves two purposes. Firstly the operator is sitting right on top of the engine and hence knows where it is relative to objects and people in the water. Secondly the over-confident person with little training or experience who thinks its "just like driving a car" will realise that driving a boat isn't that simple and go and take some more lessons.
This of course means that the 360 commando is an ideal boat for use on small waters, provided you have a decent sized engine (preferably a 25) on it so it can tow all dinghies and still get back quickly with four people on board.
The worst combination is a smallish RIB or Dory with remote controls and a pull start. Moving away from the driving position to start the engine is always going to be risky, particularly if you can't reach it whilst still wearing the kill cord.
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Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 15 Sep 06 at 8:50pm
Originally posted by Ian99
The fundamental purpose of most prop guards is to protect the prop from damage if you hit the bottom. They do little if anything to protect people in the water. |
Doing a bit of reading round the net it appears that you are over-simplifying. That was certainly the case with the very first ones, but times have changed. There are an awful lot of different types of prop guard it seems.
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Posted By: Phat Bouy
Date Posted: 16 Sep 06 at 1:16am
Originally posted by Rupert
We went for prop guards on our dories, with 20hp motors on the back. We have found they make very little difference to manouverability, and as far as fuel ecomomy goes, I'd hate to be the one explaining to a mum that her kid had his leg mangled by a prop to save 1/2p a mile in fuel. Also, in these days of being sued, you are much less likely to be done for negligence if someone looses a finger in a freak propguard accident than you are if the whole hand is lost in a prop. Sad way to look at things, but true. |
Sorry but prop guards seriously affect the handling characteristics of any power boat that has one fitted. If you are that worried about mangling people (presumably in the water) then you shouldn't be driving a boat. Prop guards are NOT a panacea for crap driving skills. Do a Safety boat course, work with experiemced helms and practice in all weathers and conditions.
Then go out and practice again and again - a bit like you should do to become good at sailing.
Check out the RYA website - even they do not recommend them!
------------- Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho
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Posted By: foaminatthedeck
Date Posted: 16 Sep 06 at 10:45am
Imho
There are no good things about propgards but I am ready to be proved wrong. I have experence using several types. The only idea I liked was the prop with a ring around the outside. But this reduces the slow speed handling so much parking became near imposisble.
------------- Lark 2170
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Posted By: CurlyBen
Date Posted: 16 Sep 06 at 8:26pm
We had ring props on our ribs and they drastically cut the performance, but the chances of getting caught in one would be quite low - it's not a big hole. However, we had at least 2 where the ring between 2 of the blades was ripped off, by a rope at idle, though these props were terribly made. I wouldn't use one out of choice, but a properly made/developed one could be ok. As for power, I'd much rather have the power in reserve than too little to start off with. One guy I had to rescue hadn't told anyone he was asthmatic and had an attack, triggered by a capsize, and I desperately wanted more power in that situation - he needed to be back on shore to get his inhaler. I've also been responsible for covering large exanses of water, and when it takes over a minute to get to a capsized boat it's worrying. Just my thoughts
------------- RS800 GBR848
Weston SC
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Posted By: Phat Bouy
Date Posted: 17 Sep 06 at 12:36pm
I've seen PGs fitted to safety boats with the idea that the drivers will not graunch the prop on the bottom and thereby reducing the prop replacements to zero. The performance of the boat is greatly reduced so you use more fuel to try and get performance back, the boat is driven harder and the engines, gearboxes and prop bushes are taking a hammering and regularly fail where before they didn't.
Not only that, but the PGs are starting to disintegrate because the drivers know that they can bottom out without smashing the prop. It won't be long before the PGs shatter and there is a catastrophic grounding.
Overall, the standard of driving has dropped since these guards where fitted - but hey, we haven't bust a prop in 2 years.... RESULT!!
------------- Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho
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Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 18 Sep 06 at 12:56pm
My own recent experience of inadequate safety boats.
F6 and my sail pulled out of the track (partly because everything was pulled on tight but mostly me jumping off the gunwhale on to it whilst capsizing). I couldn't get the boat head to wind to get the sail down and re-hoist it so I waited for the safety boat. Unfortuneately the Dory with 15hp engine didn't come even close to having enough power get me head-to-wind whilst alongside and the driver was reluctant to set up a tow for some reason. In the end had to wait for a more powerful boat to help out.
------------- Laser 203001, Harrier (H+) 36
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Posted By: lozza
Date Posted: 18 Sep 06 at 1:11pm
Has anybody got any experience of using the yamaha jet drive outboard?
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/products/subcathome/3/home.aspx - http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/products/subcathome/3/h ome.aspx
At least you're not going to snap it if you hit the bottom and it won't chop your arm off.
------------- Life's a reach, then you gybe
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Posted By: Jack Sparrow
Date Posted: 18 Sep 06 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by lozza
Has anybody got any experience of using the yamaha jet
drive outboard?
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/
products/subcathome/3/home.aspx - http://www.yamaha-motor.com/
outboard/products/subcathome/3/h ome.aspx
At least you're not going to snap it if you hit the bottom and it won't chop
your arm off. |
see told you all jet's were the way to go
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Posted By: Rupert
Date Posted: 18 Sep 06 at 5:39pm
Originally posted by Phat Bouy
Originally posted by Rupert
We went for prop guards on our dories, with 20hp motors on the back. We have found they make very little difference to manouverability, and as far as fuel ecomomy goes, I'd hate to be the one explaining to a mum that her kid had his leg mangled by a prop to save 1/2p a mile in fuel. Also, in these days of being sued, you are much less likely to be done for negligence if someone looses a finger in a freak propguard accident than you are if the whole hand is lost in a prop. Sad way to look at things, but true. |
Sorry but prop guards seriously affect the handling characteristics of any power boat that has one fitted. If you are that worried about mangling people (presumably in the water) then you shouldn't be driving a boat. Prop guards are NOT a panacea for crap driving skills. Do a Safety boat course, work with experiemced helms and practice in all weathers and conditions.
Then go out and practice again and again - a bit like you should do to become good at sailing.
Check out the RYA website - even they do not recommend them!
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Where on earth am I saying that they are an excuse for crap safety boat driving?
And I'm quite happy with my driving skills, thank you - though I'm sure more practice would do no harm at all. It isn't me I'm worried about mangling people - I've managed not to over the last 20 something years - I'm merely stating the conclusions we came to. I'm sure clubs on larger expanses of water using different types of boat would have different priorities.
------------- Firefly 2324, Puffin 229, Minisail 3446 Mirror 70686
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Posted By: 49erGBR735HSC
Date Posted: 18 Sep 06 at 5:42pm
I don't think its so much a case of designing safety boats around incompetant drivers, the focus should be imposed more on educating people how to be better safety boat drivers. There are magazines such as "RIB International" which rate boats for usage and manufactures design boats for specific tasks. When selecting a boat for safety usage, it makes more sense to select a boat preparing for the worst case scenario instead of what may be most effective in normal conditions. In my opinion, the ideal is to have a boat powerful enough to tow larger boats, have enough length to deal with swell comfortably, have enough room to carry the load equivalent to at least a few boats worth and enough speed to be able to carry out a safety check over a large area. Ideally, rescue boats which I use have VHF backed up with mobile phones for comunication, a decent first aid box, a spare bottle of oil, spare fuel tank, tool kit, flares and substaintial tow lines.
------------- Dennis Watson 49er GBR735 http://www.helensburghsailingclub.co.uk/ -
Helensburgh S.C
http://www.noblemarine.co.uk/home.php3?affid=560 - Boat Insurance from Noble Marine
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Posted By: Phat Bouy
Date Posted: 19 Sep 06 at 12:26am
Originally posted by Rupert
Originally posted by Phat Bouy
Originally posted by Rupert
We went for prop guards on our dories, with 20hp motors on the back. We have found they make very little difference to manouverability, and as far as fuel ecomomy goes, I'd hate to be the one explaining to a mum that her kid had his leg mangled by a prop to save 1/2p a mile in fuel. Also, in these days of being sued, you are much less likely to be done for negligence if someone looses a finger in a freak propguard accident than you are if the whole hand is lost in a prop. Sad way to look at things, but true. |
Sorry but prop guards seriously affect the handling characteristics of any power boat that has one fitted. If you are that worried about mangling people (presumably in the water) then you shouldn't be driving a boat. Prop guards are NOT a panacea for crap driving skills. Do a Safety boat course, work with experiemced helms and practice in all weathers and conditions.
Then go out and practice again and again - a bit like you should do to become good at sailing.
Check out the RYA website - even they do not recommend them!
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Where on earth am I saying that they are an excuse for crap safety boat driving?
And I'm quite happy with my driving skills, thank you - though I'm sure more practice would do no harm at all. It isn't me I'm worried about mangling people - I've managed not to over the last 20 something years - I'm merely stating the conclusions we came to. I'm sure clubs on larger expanses of water using different types of boat would have different priorities.
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Rupert - nowhere did you say that and nowhere did I say that either. The words I used were "panacea" not "excuse" and "skills" not "driving". It was a general statement that meant fitting a PG is not the answer but a whole new bag of worms for many different reasons. Even the RYA do not recommend them - what does that tell you?
An average prop is 3 bladed and revolves at approx 1000rpm at tick over. Therefore 1 blade will hack into you approximately (3000/60) 50 times a minute. Force = Mass x Acceleration. Take the speed up to 5000rpm (250 hits a minute) - We are looking at a very bad hair day indeed. That is what I teach on all of my PB courses before we even get near the water. A powerboat is potentially a lethal machine - respect it.
------------- Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho
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Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 19 Sep 06 at 12:47pm
Whoa guys. Rupert - I'm fairly sure that when Phat Bouy writes 'you' he doesn't mean you personally and a panacea is more of a cure than excuse.
------------- Laser 203001, Harrier (H+) 36
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Posted By: allanorton
Date Posted: 19 Sep 06 at 3:32pm
Originally posted by Phat Bouy
An average prop is 3 bladed and revolves at approx 1000rpm at tick over. Therefore 1 blade will hack into you approximately (3000/60) 50 times a minute. Force = Mass x Acceleration. Take the speed up to 5000rpm (250 hits a minute) That is what I teach on all of my PB courses |
good job you don't teach them physics!
surely a 3 bladed prop roataing at 1000 revolutions-per-minute will hit you 3000 times?!
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Posted By: Ian99
Date Posted: 19 Sep 06 at 4:46pm
Also, there's a 2.5:1 gearbox on the average 60hp so at an idle speed of 1000rpm for the engine, the prop is only doing 400rpm. Not that it really makes much difference ... either way there's a sharp metal object rotating at fairly high speed which is going to do a fair bit of damage!
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 30 Sep 06 at 9:08pm
searching the web for opinions of types of ribs prefered as safety boats, and came across this forum. Am getting the impression that size matters(engine and boat length) to be able to respond to an incident quickly. I suspect,and hope,that posts recommending small engines have come from persons who operate in relatively calm waters.
would like to hear opinions on kitting out a safety rib.First Aid kit,knife,flares, 'thermal blankets' taken for granted.
Am more interested in positioning of grab handles,on tube,on console.Is an 'A' frame a preffered option.
Throttle controls.Should they be left or right handed,and the angle can vary so much,no good for small people with short arms.
And while on short people,got to mention the delicate matter of seat height for short males.bouncing about in heavy seas can hurt,RIB designers take note.
Radio position,and more importantly speaker position and VOLUME.Very irritating to have to keep backing off the power to communicate.
Boat design.Ribs with raised bow profile tend to be a lot drier in heavy seas.Dry safety boat crews are, I suspect ,more content than the wet variety.
On another subject... have done a fair amount of towing on a line and quite regularly have had to explain to people NOT to tie off on both ends of the tow line...common sense i would have thought...... any comments
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Posted By: 49erGBR735HSC
Date Posted: 30 Sep 06 at 9:29pm
I prefer throttle positioning on the left hand side of the console due to the fact that I've been well taught and feel that it's safest to operate powerboats one hand on the throtle and one on the steering wheel. I feel more in control with my right hand steering, hence this preference. On another note, I've worked with Powerboat instructors, previously employed by the Navy and they never sat down at the consoles on the boats and instead had a well balanced upright stance. The reason for this is through their experience, after prolonged work on ribs, sitting at the console caused back problems, especially slamming through waves. When you are sitting down at the console, the base of your spine absorbs most of your bodies energy whilst the boat bounces over waves. By standing up, the energy is less concentrated and is divided up through the whole of your back, legs, etc. For the crew of a rib, sitting down on the inflatable sides of the rib, the slamming effect on the base of the spine has low consequence due to the fact that the inflatable tanks absorb more energy than a console seat.
------------- Dennis Watson 49er GBR735 http://www.helensburghsailingclub.co.uk/ -
Helensburgh S.C
http://www.noblemarine.co.uk/home.php3?affid=560 - Boat Insurance from Noble Marine
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Posted By: CurlyBen
Date Posted: 30 Sep 06 at 10:27pm
Another vote for throttle on the left, again I much prefer having full control of steering and power, and some boats (especially if the trim anode's been knocked) are hard to turn at speed with power. I tend to stand if the boat's really slamming, if you keep your knees slightly bent it's much more comfortable going through the waves, and I prefer an A frame - might just be psychological but I don't like relying on the steering wheel to stop me flying forward! While there's definitely an argument for bigger ribs, they can be too big and then get very difficult to manouevre close to a dinghy. Spare shackles can be useful - can make the difference between a tow or sailing back, and bits of rope and pliers are useful too. With radios the ones I've used have had speakers in the handset which can be easier to hear, but proper shielding from the engine electrics makes a big difference to how other people can hear you.
------------- RS800 GBR848
Weston SC
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Posted By: Ian99
Date Posted: 01 Oct 06 at 12:37am
I'll be different and put my vote for throttle on the right hand side, simply because you can get away with letting go of the throttle for short periods to use the radio, clean your glasses etc. which is suprisingly difficult to do with your left hand (if you're right handed).
As far as the main task of operating the boat is concerned, I find it doesn't really make any difference, and perhaps suprisingly, I don't even notice when swapping between boats which have it on opposite ways round!
With towing, the thing I never understand is the way people don't use the full length of the tow rope you've thrown them and then wonder why their boat ends up in the back of the engine - in a big sea 100 feet of rope can be too short in some cases!
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Posted By: m_liddell
Date Posted: 01 Oct 06 at 2:56pm
A throw line from the front of the boat is useful for quick lee shore rescues. I also stand a bit when in waves, a rib I used once had foot loops!
BTW another vote for throttle on the right. It just feels more natural for some reason even though I learned with it on the left.
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Posted By: Windspirit1333
Date Posted: 01 Oct 06 at 3:39pm
It depends on what you need the rescue boat for really!
On our Inland lake back at home a 4m searider with a 15 on the back would be more than enough (but then the lake is tiny!)
At the outdoor centre i worked at (on the south coast) we had 4m seariders with 25s on the back no prop guard as we are all from the school as as soon as you get near kill the engine!! although the size was great for doing training/safety around picos and 2000's the engine size could have been bigger as its a little difficult towing against tide with 6 x 2000's in tow behind you!! Also out of the harbour with big waves the rib size did make you feel a little dwarfed!
but even then with 25's there were okay, my only gripe was the jeannaus with the 15's on the back! evil little things with no electronic trim so useless in a tidal harbour full of mud
However I work for a Harbour Authority nearby and we run a 5.85m with a 75 on the back... which is great for what we need it for, mostly towing and the occasional rescue (though a slightly bigger engine would be cool to chase those pesky jetskis) but for towing dinghys its fine and you can easy rest a rack over the sponson and tow alongside without it being too bulky! the turning circle is nice too not too wide to make it annoying to drive (though the A frame on the back is useless as we've snapped it off twice) (but then again we have a larger displacement craft for when grunt is needed!) I find the size is great if you do need to be out of the harbour entrance in the big stuff and the engine is powerful enough so you can get to people in a safety capacity quicky!
i think its all depends on the true use of your boat for the set up really... i've driven throttle left and right and find both as easy as each other... but having the VHF on the console right by you makes it so much easier to hear and i've found the depthsounder (in coastal areas) and GPS invaluable! Also having throw lines on the bow and either side of the A-frame is rear mounted makes it super helpful!
just realised how long this post is! hope its of some help!
------------- 'The Original Pitchpole Princess' Wanna race your Trapeze and Asymm boat against others? check out www.TASA.org.uk
I14 GBR1333 'Windspirit'
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 01 Oct 06 at 11:49pm
Well pleased to find five return posts within twentyfour hours.There are few regular safety boat drivers in my patch of water ,so its good to get this sort of feedback.
Thanks 49er for info on standing not sitting.I have to agree.I never sit unless stationary.Standing with bent knees is well advised.Sitting on sponsons may absorb jarring ,but its also difficult to hang on in the rough.
I drive two completely different RIBS. One has the centre seat tight up to the console.This means permantly standing astride the seat.The seat is too high and wide too allow any knee flexing.It also requires this short legged driver wears supportive underwear in rough seas! The other RIB fitted out by an experienced driver is set back from the console allowing the driver to sit, or to stand freely with flexed knees...so much better.
Like you Ian99 I drive RIBS which have opposite throttles. Despite being right handed I have no preference.Wearing prescription glasses is such a pain isnt it(cant wear contacts) Any advice?
where on the boat curly ben, is your A frame?! Spare shackles......absolutely, and spare ground tackle, as just occasionally anchor has been laid without attaching buoy !
windspirit I admit to breaking just about everything......but 'A'frames!!!! We have upgraded to 75hp's and wouldnt be without them now. Agree that radio needs to be up on the console.We have one placed at knee height to protect it from the weather ! Daft place for the speake,r and frequently knock channel dial with my knee.
Towing points on RIBS? On the 'A' frame?(windspirit!)Off the console seat?Off the transom?Hold between teeth?
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Posted By: Phat Bouy
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 3:24am
Originally posted by michel
Towing points on RIBS? On the 'A' frame?(windspirit!)Off the console seat?Off the transom?Hold between teeth? | The only safe place for a tow is outside of the boat, ie a securely rigged towing bridle. Seats are for sitting on and A-Frames are for dangling VHF aerials and nav lights off.
------------- Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho
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Posted By: Windspirit1333
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 11:30am
Haha No using the A frame was a last minute emergnecy descision as the towing bridle off the transom snapped! but yes agree heartliy that do not use the a frame as it snapped rope crushed three of my fingers and broke them which then involved the firebrigade and the ambulance (but thats a whole other story)
I'm also a big fan of footstraps and like 49er I prefer standing not sitting especially with large waves around and when going at higher speed stops you back and knees being jarred! however if i'm on patrol cruising around 6-8 knots sitting is fine! Also with our set up we try to make sure we don't have anyone sitting on the sponsons. My only gripe is as we have the most uncomforable seats ever! and also for us girlies that work there they are a little to high so it still makes it uncomforatble when standing up, i guess they didn't expect female patrol officers!
this is our usual rib set up! note the Towing bridle! as you can see both seat are quite high (excuse the bad pic of me!) but there loads of easy access round the boat which makes it great!

this is a bad shot of our general console set up, as you can see we have fish finder on the left top side the GPS and other gear, our radio is set at around knee height but dead centre so we don't have the dial issue! but yeah i can see how that would be a problem.
10 guesses for which harbour patrol we are!
------------- 'The Original Pitchpole Princess' Wanna race your Trapeze and Asymm boat against others? check out www.TASA.org.uk
I14 GBR1333 'Windspirit'
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Posted By: Phat Bouy
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 5:22pm
Originally posted by Windspirit1333
note the Towing bridle!
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It looks as though your bridle has a fixed ring in the centre. If this is the case then you will experience unbalanced loads on the transom of your boat when turning or if your tow starts to wander, which in turn can cause the bridle to fail. The ring should be movable so that both sides of the bridle are pulling evenly. 
You can't be in Portsmouth because they use aluminium cats and Chichester have big black ribs so I would guess - Langstone.
------------- Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho
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Posted By: CurlyBen
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 5:57pm
Originally posted by michel
where on the boat curly ben, is your A frame?! |
Sorry, didn't mean an A frame (I don't normally use RIBs with them), I meant a hoop on the front of the console.
------------- RS800 GBR848
Weston SC
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Posted By: BBSCFaithfull
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 6:02pm
Windspirit i think u look quite tasty in that piccy! lol Enough about engine size. Does anyone have any engine make preferences? I have to say i do prefer yamahas! They are so much better than any of the hondas we've had. Lots more grunt and are more responsive while being lighter and dare i say it more reliable!
And i have to say that the size of the rib should be suitable for the things you are doing with them? I would have to say that when down in chichester i saw a 6-7m rib with a 225 hp mercury doing safety cover along side other vast ribs! in the itchenor channel for the mirror fleet!
------------- Greatfully Sponsored By
www.allgoodfun.com
Int 14 GBR 1503!!
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Posted By: MRJP BUZZ 585
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 6:19pm
Originally posted by Windspirit1333
You can't be in Portsmouth because they use aluminium cats and Chichester have big black ribs so I would guess - Langstone.
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I don't think it is langstone as i saw their rib and i don't think it looked like that
------------- Josh Preater
http://www.bu22.co.uk"> BUZZING IS FUN
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 6:37pm
that towing bridle ring was well spotted Phat buoy/bouy.Must admit that i missed that one,distracted by that... 'bad picture of the driver'. I thought that all us RIB,safety boat drivers were old,weather beaten and wrinkly.Have I led a too sheltered life?
Though we have towing bridles we never use them.Noone has ever fitted the rings!I gather that they should be a figure of eight design.Have heard that the idea is to take a turn through the ring and not to tie off on it.... ?
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Posted By: foaminatthedeck
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 8:00pm
is the pic taken pool
------------- Lark 2170
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 8:01pm
if someone could find some way of peeling off that large orange 'sticker' from the side of windspirits console.............
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 8:47pm
anyone get to go out and play in Sundays strong Southerlies.Had to lay a start line for a bunch of yachties who were keen on sailing around our island in an F7.Had a nervous passenger onboard,and by the time we were done had a nervous driver as well! Been a long time since i been in a RIB that vertical,and not in a hurry to go there again.No speed involved,just climbing huge seas and being caught by the wind.
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Posted By: m_liddell
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 10:39pm
Originally posted by BBSCFaithfull
Windspirit i think u look quite tasty in that piccy! lol Enough about engine size. Does anyone have any engine make preferences? I have to say i do prefer yamahas! They are so much better than any of the hondas we've had. Lots more grunt and are more responsive while being lighter and dare i say it more reliable!
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I second that. Sunsail use yamaha a lot and we had 30hp engines that were thrashed every day for 8 hours 6 months of the year in salt water with very minimal maintenance. They then sat unused until the next season and had done this routine for years. We amost never had a breakdown and almost guaranteed to start first go in the morning. Other brands of engines constantly had problems even after a couple of months from new!
Windspirit is my sister btw...
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Posted By: Villan
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 10:43pm
Was it taken at / near Mengeham Rythe SC?
Only sailed there twice, but never saw the rib on the water, and it had the cover on the console every other time I saw it.
------------- Vareo - 149 "Secrets"
http://www.TandyUKServers.co.uk" rel="nofollow - TandyUK Servers
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Posted By: Ian99
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 11:21pm
I seem to recall reading somewhere that there were actually only a couple of different engine production lines, with differences between lots of brands not being much more than the name on the lid!!
Apart from it breaking a lot (not the engine's fault usually!) one of the best I used was a (fairly large) 2 Stroke Selva, which I think was a rebadged version of something Japanese, but I could be wrong. It seemed to have a lot more torque than most, as well as an exhaust note that would put a Ferrari to shame! The only "problem" with operating it was the "fingertip" throttle control, which went from 0 to 110 horses in about two inches of movement.....great for things like ski boats where the same person drives it most of the time, but not so good for club rescue boats where people aren't familiar with it!
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Posted By: Windspirit1333
Date Posted: 02 Oct 06 at 11:51pm
Phat Buoy well done yep i am indeed a langstone harbour mistress it is true!
MRJP BUZZ 585 were you at the Aysmm open? if so you did see us.... me in fact chilling and watching the action Noycey in particular (just for you as i know you'll be reading!) so nil points for even seeing our rib and me and not recognising the piccy! 
michel you must be looking in the wrong harbours! we have had three girlies all under 25 working for us this season and all mad sailors too! though we do get funny looks when attending thing or enforcing bye-laws to pesky jet skiiers! (espcially if i have bunches....humm odd that!)
BBSCFaithfull all i can say to you is (and i hear your a fellow 14 sailor too...)
but away from that yeah yamaha! our marnier is shocking i depise it with a purple passion and it gets warmed up and run through every launch! wereas Yammies i know never get run through or anything and still last whole seasons getting bashed about no problem!
------------- 'The Original Pitchpole Princess' Wanna race your Trapeze and Asymm boat against others? check out www.TASA.org.uk
I14 GBR1333 'Windspirit'
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Posted By: MRJP BUZZ 585
Date Posted: 03 Oct 06 at 8:17am
Originally posted by Windspirit1333
MRJP BUZZ 585 were you at the Aysmm open? if so you did see us.... me in fact chilling and watching the action Noycey in particular (just for you as i know you'll be reading!) so nil points for even seeing our rib and me and not recognising the piccy! 
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Sorry, i was basing my opinion on looking at the rib while talking to the bosun and i could't remember seeing the plastic spray shield.
I was at the assy open in my buzz, do you know if any pics were taken from the rib?
------------- Josh Preater
http://www.bu22.co.uk"> BUZZING IS FUN
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Posted By: Guest
Date Posted: 03 Oct 06 at 8:55am
If you spend a lot of time in ribs and are worried about the slamming damaging your back you need one of these ...
http://www.venomribs.com/ - http://www.venomribs.com/
-------------
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Posted By: Windspirit1333
Date Posted: 03 Oct 06 at 10:10am
Hehe in all fairness we weren't there long MRJP BUZZ 585 as sadly we had work to do what with being on patrol! was cool to see so many Buzz and ISO's out through! though admittedly i was drooling at the 14...
i dunno if any piccies were take from any of the other ribs that were on duty for you guys and when we said hi to the committee boat they looked grumpy to see us! (go figure!) so we soon shot off to cause chaos somewhere else!
------------- 'The Original Pitchpole Princess' Wanna race your Trapeze and Asymm boat against others? check out www.TASA.org.uk
I14 GBR1333 'Windspirit'
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Posted By: MRJP BUZZ 585
Date Posted: 03 Oct 06 at 1:37pm
Originally posted by Windspirit1333
admittedly i was drooling at the 14...
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Yea made me jump to see the huge kite coming up behind me on one of the downwind legs
------------- Josh Preater
http://www.bu22.co.uk"> BUZZING IS FUN
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Posted By: Windspirit1333
Date Posted: 03 Oct 06 at 10:16pm
yeah whenever we get the kite up on my 14 i still get scared by the size! and that when i know a spanking is imminent! gotta love it!
------------- 'The Original Pitchpole Princess' Wanna race your Trapeze and Asymm boat against others? check out www.TASA.org.uk
I14 GBR1333 'Windspirit'
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 8:22pm
patiently awaiting posts but interest seems to have faded. Are there any well experienced Safety boat drivers who personal tips that they would like to pass on.Anything about their club RIBS that they would care to change.Inovations they would like to introduce.
How about life jackets..... should you wear an automatic or manual. I am not convinced either way. Automatic obviously useful if the wearer is unconscious on hitting the water,but they could be a nuiscance if the wearer became trapped under water. Any experiences out there ?
Still trying to find out HOW to use the towing bridle.Internet search produced bridle details and diagrams ,but I am unable to find anything regarding the practicality of using one. No way am I tying off the tow rope on the bridle ring.I may well want to cast that tow off urgently.So how do I secure the tow rope onto the ring NOT THE BOAT in such a way that i can disengage instantly without first stopping the boat ?
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Posted By: 49erGBR735HSC
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 8:40pm
I know this has probably been said before, but I reckon that any safety boat should have at least a driver and one crew for many reasons, mainly the driver's visibility not encompassing 360 degrees all the time and the manouverability of the rib driver on the boat being only as far as the kill-chord can stretch. A rescue boat driver drives and the crew does the other tasks such as picking up bouys (literally, not the manovere), fending off, tying boats onto tow ropes etc, and if there is only the driver (one person) on the boat, it seriously reduces the safety of the boat whilst providing rescue cover. I never wear a life-jacket on anything but a yacht, all the rest of the time its bouyancy aids. If a crew of a rescue boat accidently inflates their life-jacket, it seriously reduces their manoverability and effectiveness, with bouyancy aids you simply don't have that problem.
------------- Dennis Watson 49er GBR735 http://www.helensburghsailingclub.co.uk/ -
Helensburgh S.C
http://www.noblemarine.co.uk/home.php3?affid=560 - Boat Insurance from Noble Marine
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Posted By: Phat Bouy
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 9:22pm
Originally posted by michel
patiently awaiting posts |
Do a Safety boat course, work with experienced helms and practice in all weathers and conditions.
Then go out and practice again and again - a bit like you do to become proficient at sailing. Then when you think you know it all - go out and practice again and again.
There is no substitute for experience.
------------- Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho
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Posted By: foaminatthedeck
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 10:03pm
Originally posted by 49erGBR735HSC
I know this has probably been said before, but I reckon that any safety boat should have at least a driver and one crew for many reasons, mainly the driver's visibility not encompassing 360 degrees all the time and the manouverability of the rib driver on the boat being only as far as the kill-chord can stretch. A rescue boat driver drives and the crew does the other tasks such as picking up bouys (literally, not the manovere), fending off, tying boats onto tow ropes etc, and if there is only the driver (one person) on the boat, it seriously reduces the safety of the boat whilst providing rescue cover. I never wear a life-jacket on anything but a yacht, all the rest of the time its bouyancy aids. If a crew of a rescue boat accidently inflates their life-jacket, it seriously reduces their manoverability and effectiveness, with bouyancy aids you simply don't have that problem. |
I dissgaree id rather be on my own another person just gets in my way, i can do things faster and better on my own. If the safety of the safety boat is reduced because im on my own as an SI Id be wondering what I and a fleet was doing on the water(rather than in the pub)in those conditions.
I agree with BA's in safety boats as a driver you always need to be ready to go swimming. As for not wearing personal bouyancy in a yacht, hey its your funeral.
In a comercial cetting its not posisble to have 2 people in a boat, but on the other hand most comercial driver are better train and more experence than the club driver.IMHO
------------- Lark 2170
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 10:22pm
Now that was quick! you two guys been sitting at your P.C.s just waiting for a post!!!! That 49er, is a damn good point,but it brings up the concern that buoyancy aids will not support an unconscious persons head clear of the water,but that life jackets do ?
Wholeheartily agree with you that two bodies required on safety boats and that the crew should do the donkey work! (Hope that my regular boat partner aint reading this.)When it comes to laying marks though I tend to make it a team effort,unless conditions are that rough that the helm has to hold position.
I like that comment Phat Buoy...when you think that you know it all ......
I agree
Heres another question. What precisely do you, as drivers, do when you are raising marks in strong tidal or wind conditions?
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Posted By: m_liddell
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 10:22pm
While 2 people is ideal, if you only have a small number of people for safety I'd take 2 ribs with one person each over 1 rib with 2. There really isn't much that one person in a rib can't handle. It's just hard dealing with a dinghy and also steering/throttle all at the same time.
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Posted By: Ian99
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 10:22pm
Originally posted by michel
Still trying to find out HOW to use the towing bridle.Internet search produced bridle details and diagrams ,but I am unable to find anything regarding the practicality of using one. No way am I tying off the tow rope on the bridle ring.I may well want to cast that tow off urgently.So how do I secure the tow rope onto the ring NOT THE BOAT in such a way that i can disengage instantly without first stopping the boat ?
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Why do you want to be able to release the tow rope from the towing boat whilst driving along? I can't see how this would ever be helpful - all it would result in would be the towed boat drifting over a load of loose rope and getting it caught round its rudder. You also end up losing your tow rope. The non secured end of the towline would normally be on the boat being towed, which then once released the rope doesn't get knotted up in anything as the water holds it out straight. Most towlines on bridles I have ever seen have a large carabina spliced onto one end. This then clips onto directly onto the bridle. This is "quick release" enough to deal with problems like getting the towed boat caught round mooring buoys or it capsizing, where the first thing you do is stop anyway.
If you really want an "in emergency pull cord" solution to detach the towline whilst moving along, it can only really be done when the towline is attached within the boat, anything on the bridle increases the risk of a loose end of rope becoming caught round the prop. A safety boat I used to use (18 foot dory) had a 3 foot high 4 inch square section metal post mounted directly in the centre of the boat from its previous life as a boat used to tow parascenders. This was ideal for towing boats as it had been mounted in such a position as to not affect the steering - after all, towing a parachute with someone hanging off it at 30 knots is significantly more critical and difficult than towing a small dinghy at 5 knots!
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Posted By: Ian99
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 10:32pm
Originally posted by michel
Heres another question. What precisely do you, as drivers, do when you are raising marks in strong tidal or wind conditions?
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Drive the boat in the direction of the tide to tighten the anchor rope and make the life as difficult as possible for the crew 
Seriously, in strong tide, I will drive the boat gently forwards against the tide (usually no more than idle in forward is needed), but checking all the time that the anchor line isn't going under the boat. In strong wind (and then usually big waves!) if there's only two people in the boat, it's far more important to hold the crew in the boat whilst sat in a secure position. In most RIBs, thid can be done if the driver stays in the driving position and holds the crew's buoyancy aid belt from behind, with the crew standing immediately in front of the console and pulling the line up over the front of the boat. If doing this, it's absolutely essential you don't have the boat in gear. If the crew goes over the front, you will get pulled forward, and possibly land on the throttle. What happens next wouldn't be at all pleasant.
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 10:49pm
hey foaminatthedeck, youv'e almost got me foamin at the mouth with those comments. I think that youv'e got some stick coming your way!!!! 
aint sure if your serious or kidding.Do you do it on a duck pond or on the open sea!
We can all,I assume,cope admirably on our own,but two men are better able to recover casualties from the water, that point alone is sufficient reason to have crew on board.
Whats all this about always needing to be ready to go swimming.Who you kidding, you just told us that you prefer to be on your own,so, WHO IS DRIVING WHEN YOU ARE SWIMMING?
I was laying marks out in a force 7 and mountainous seas last weekend and would have struggled on my own.Almost flipped the RIB . Still wondering about the sanity of those yachties and the OOD But it was fun
The majority of the fleet was in the pub!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NOT BITING THE BAIT ON THAT...... COMMERCIAL v CLUB DRIVERS
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 11:09pm
99...you can drive my RIB anytime. Well,those strong winds last weekend were such ,that i had to drive into the anchor line.Those huge seas gave me no option. And as for holding onto my crew....too busy trying to hold position! Anyway hes only five foot something and can barely see over the tubes!
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 08 Oct 06 at 11:25pm
99 reason for wanting control at the tow boat end is that i dont trust the bodies on the tow to react quick enough if a sudden coming together is to be avoided.If tow rope is dropped ,it can always be recovered.... I hope. Most of our towing is done from the remarkably sturdy console seat which equates to your parascending pole. It works well.Though we never use the bridle, I am interested in trying it out and finding the best and safest way to use it.
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Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 09 Oct 06 at 8:21am
Originally posted by foaminatthedeck
Originally posted by 49erGBR735HSC
I know this has probably been said before, but I reckon that any safety boat should have at least a driver and one crew for many reasons, mainly the driver's visibility not encompassing 360 degrees all the time and the manouverability of the rib driver on the boat being only as far as the kill-chord can stretch. A rescue boat driver drives and the crew does the other tasks such as picking up bouys (literally, not the manovere), fending off, tying boats onto tow ropes etc, and if there is only the driver (one person) on the boat, it seriously reduces the safety of the boat whilst providing rescue cover. I never wear a life-jacket on anything but a yacht, all the rest of the time its bouyancy aids. If a crew of a rescue boat accidently inflates their life-jacket, it seriously reduces their manoverability and effectiveness, with bouyancy aids you simply don't have that problem. |
I dissgaree id rather be on my own another person just gets in my way, i can do things faster and better on my own. If the safety of the safety boat is reduced because im on my own as an SI Id be wondering what I and a fleet was doing on the water(rather than in the pub)in those conditions.
I agree with BA's in safety boats as a driver you always need to be ready to go swimming. As for not wearing personal bouyancy in a yacht, hey its your funeral.
In a comercial cetting its not posisble to have 2 people in a boat, but on the other hand most comercial driver are better train and more experence than the club driver.IMHO
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The RYA say the best way to save someone involved in an entrapment situation is to right the boat as quickly as possible. If there is only one person on board the safety boat I don't see how this is possible.
------------- Laser 203001, Harrier (H+) 36
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 09 Oct 06 at 10:16pm
Originally posted by Ian99
Originally posted by michel
Still trying to find out HOW to use the towing bridle.Internet search produced bridle details and diagrams ,but I am unable to find anything regarding the practicality of using one. No way am I tying off the tow rope on the bridle ring.I may well want to cast that tow off urgently.So how do I secure the tow rope onto the ring NOT THE BOAT in such a way that i can disengage instantly without first stopping the boat ?
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Why do you want to be able to release the tow rope from the towing boat whilst driving along? I can't see how this would ever be helpful - all it would result in would be the towed boat drifting over a load of loose rope and getting it caught round its rudder. You also end up losing your tow rope. The non secured end of the towline would normally be on the boat being towed, which then once released the rope doesn't get knotted up in anything as the water holds it out straight. Most towlines on bridles I have ever seen have a large carabina spliced onto one end. This then clips onto directly onto the bridle. This is "quick release" enough to deal with problems like getting the towed boat caught round mooring buoys or it capsizing, where the first thing you do is stop anyway.
If you really want an "in emergency pull cord" solution to detach the towline whilst moving along, it can only really be done when the towline is attached within the boat, anything on the bridle increases the risk of a loose end of rope becoming caught round the prop. A safety boat I used to use (18 foot dory) had a 3 foot high 4 inch square section metal post mounted directly in the centre of the boat from its previous life as a boat used to tow parascenders. This was ideal for towing boats as it had been mounted in such a position as to not affect the steering - after all, towing a parachute with someone hanging off it at 30 knots is significantly more critical and difficult than towing a small dinghy at 5 knots! |
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Posted By: Phat Bouy
Date Posted: 09 Oct 06 at 10:21pm
Hmmmm .........................................................
We do seem to be going round and around and around ...................... beginning to suspect a TROLL here. 
Best boat (as in title of the thread)? What ever does the job .............. with whoever is willing to rock up and give it a go!!
------------- Je suis Marxiste - tendance Groucho
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 09 Oct 06 at 10:42pm
An instructor has pointed out to me that Quick release of the tow line gets a mention in the RYA safety boat handbook.So,having dusted off my ancient copy I found the brief sentence ' The knot securing the towline should be capable of quick release.' pp25 'Securing the towline' ..... or 'make one end of the bridle capable of quick release.' Am reliably informed that the RNLI use a quick release system on their RIBS. A crewman holds onto the towrope through a 'descender'
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 09 Oct 06 at 10:47pm
sorry Ian99 for highjacking your posting.Cant figure out how to lift a quote...yet.
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Posted By: les5269
Date Posted: 09 Oct 06 at 10:57pm
All our towropes are secured to the rib and we give the end to the crew and tell them to take a turn around the mast and hold onto it. Then if there are any problems they have the choice to let go or hold on. We never tie the towed boat to the rib. If there is no mast you can still tow by taking a turn around the bottom of the forestay or as we did with my 49er put the wing over the side of the rib and hold it there to tow it in.
------------- 49er 531 & 5000 5025 and a mirror(now gone to mirror heaven)!
http://www.grafham.org/" rel="nofollow - Grafham water Sailing Club The greatest inland sailing in the country
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 10 Oct 06 at 8:38pm
okay I give in. I will have to assume that none of us use towing bridles,and its probably because other options are easier.
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Posted By: foaminatthedeck
Date Posted: 11 Oct 06 at 10:30am
The boats I've driven all have towing bridles I just tie on to them using a couple of half hitches (reasonalby quick releace).
------------- Lark 2170
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Posted By: 49erGBR735HSC
Date Posted: 11 Oct 06 at 10:53am
On some of the boats I've used, the tow ropes have had climbing carribeanas(?..hooks) attached to clip onto a loop on the towing bridal. Saves fiddling about with knots at the back of a rescue boat. If I'm instructing and have a fleet of boats, ie 6 toppers to look after, I can prepare a tow line on-shore with loops at set spaces for painters to be tied on to, reckon 2-3 boat spaces is the distance I've used before (off the top of my head). However, covering a varried fleet, you can't be so specific so unless you can be sure that you are specifically covering a certain fleet like 6 toppers, its pointless preparing a towline that specific.
------------- Dennis Watson 49er GBR735 http://www.helensburghsailingclub.co.uk/ -
Helensburgh S.C
http://www.noblemarine.co.uk/home.php3?affid=560 - Boat Insurance from Noble Marine
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 16 Oct 06 at 11:29pm
following yet another redesigned prop,we the drivers are considering wearing badges showing our individual strikes, a bit like a fighter pilot records his 'kills'.No one injured,just a load of rock hopping! Need to retain some sense of humour to do the job, but are we being a little too flippant
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Posted By: michel
Date Posted: 11 Nov 06 at 1:17am
well finally I got to take a look at the RNLI towing bridle setup on an inshore rescue craft. Neat system which transfers the strain of the tow from the stern to a forward position,thereby allowing the RIB to get up on the plane.Handy if you need to tow a super tanker.Crew keeps tension on, and can adjust, length of bridle rope through a figure of eight descender. Tow can be released instantly by letting go of the hand hold on the bridle. Free end of bridle flies out the back door allowing tow rope to slide off bridle.
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