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Progrip?

Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: Dinghy classes
Forum Name: Dinghy development
Forum Discription: The latest moves in the dinghy market
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1218
Printed Date: 15 Aug 25 at 9:03am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Progrip?
Posted By: NickA
Subject: Progrip?
Date Posted: 20 Nov 05 at 6:31pm

A lot of contenders have this high friction rubbery sheeting on their decks and in their footwells. 

Progrip is it?  

Where can you get it?  .... and does it work?

 

 




Replies:
Posted By: neilw
Date Posted: 20 Nov 05 at 6:44pm
Most online chanderlies have it (such as http://www.sail-sport.com/cgi-bin/ss.cgi?usr=54127&page=showitem&pid=XTPGSHEETBLK - http://www.sail-sport.com/cgi-bin/ss.cgi?usr=54127&page= showitem&pid=XTPGSHEETBLK ). And yes it does work.....

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Posted By: NickA
Date Posted: 20 Nov 05 at 6:47pm

wow, quick response

I'm guessing that once it's stuck on with that serious looking contact adhesive, there's no removing it - except to fit some more?

Well it will cover the cracks in the gelcoat I guess! 



Posted By: Iain C
Date Posted: 20 Nov 05 at 6:58pm

It will come off but it's a pain in the arse.  When you do fit it, bear in mind the following...

When you apply the glue the progrip will curl up

It will also expand about 10% so don't cut to an exact size.

if you get glue on the visible side it's very hard to get off!

When I did my contender I just managed to get enough out of 1 sheet to do the whole side decks from gunwhales back to to the aft tank, with the "teardrop" shape at the back.  Use some newspaper templates first to make sure you can get all 4 templates (port and stbd fwd and aft) on the sheet.  Make it overhang the gunwhale slightly and trim it back with a Stanley knife afterwards.

I've given up sailing Contenders now because although they are a beautiful boat I found crawling across the thing on hands and knees and getting stuck under the boom a pain in the arse.  However the Progrip made an enormous difference to the amount of swimming and unscheduled trips to the foredeck I did!



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RS700 GBR922 "Wirespeed"
Fireball GBR14474 "Eleven Parsecs"
Enterprise GBR21970
Bavaria 32 GBR4755L "Adastra"


Posted By: Ian99
Date Posted: 20 Nov 05 at 6:58pm
Don't be tempted by the "self adhesive" variant - it doesn't work and lifts off the deck with heat cycling from the sun before you even have a chance to go sailing!
With the non self adhesive version (as linked in a previous post), the fancy contact adhesive isn't really necessary, the standard glue sniffers stuff used to stick flooring down with works just as well and is a lot cheaper. Make sure you but the "trade" version of the Evostick, not the "solvent free" weaker than Pritt Stick version which is quite often the only found in DIY stores.


Posted By: les5269
Date Posted: 20 Nov 05 at 8:52pm

We used the self adhesive on the rack of our 5000 it seemed fine

 

whether it will work over that area I'm not sure?On my old contender I glued it on and it stayed put for a couple of years



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49er 531 & 5000 5025 and a mirror(now gone to mirror heaven)!

http://www.grafham.org/" rel="nofollow - Grafham water Sailing Club The greatest inland sailing in the country


Posted By: 5420
Date Posted: 20 Nov 05 at 9:26pm
one thing i fond with pro grip is if you put it on in winter you have to warm it up lots first or it will not stay on

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Posted By: m_liddell
Date Posted: 20 Nov 05 at 10:36pm
Originally posted by NickA

I'm guessing that once it's stuck on with that serious looking contact adhesive, there's no removing it

You *can* remove it but it's quite a job. My 14 has loads of pro-grip down both sides and it took us 2 weeks 1.5hrs a day to get it all off!



Posted By: Iain C
Date Posted: 21 Nov 05 at 11:06am

Easiest way to get it off is to use a SOFT wire cup brush in an electric drill.  You'd be amazed how little it actually damages the boat underneath, if you push hard the most you get is a little "keying" of the gelcoat which is a good thing anyway if you're sticking the progrip back on again.

However, hold the drill VERY FIRMLY as if it dissapears off down your side deck in a moment of daydreaming then that is not ideal...



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RS700 GBR922 "Wirespeed"
Fireball GBR14474 "Eleven Parsecs"
Enterprise GBR21970
Bavaria 32 GBR4755L "Adastra"


Posted By: tgruitt
Date Posted: 21 Nov 05 at 11:39am

Originally posted by neilw

Most online chanderlies have it (such as http://www.sail-sport.com/cgi-bin/ss.cgi?usr=54127&page=showitem&pid=XTPGSHEETBLK - http://www.sail-sport.com/cgi-bin/ss.cgi?usr=54127&page= showitem&pid=XTPGSHEETBLK ). And yes it does work.....

Yes, sail sport chandlery are very good.

make sure the glue is completely dry before you get it wet or else it goes a bit funny!



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Needs to sail more...


Posted By: Guest
Date Posted: 21 Nov 05 at 11:57am

Originally posted by Ian99

Don't be tempted by the "self adhesive" variant - it doesn't work and lifts off the deck with heat cycling from the sun before you even have a chance to go sailing!
With the non self adhesive version (as linked in a previous post), the fancy contact adhesive isn't really necessary, the standard glue sniffers stuff used to stick flooring down with works just as well and is a lot cheaper. Make sure you but the "trade" version of the Evostick, not the "solvent free" weaker than Pritt Stick version which is quite often the only found in DIY stores.

That is not true; I used the self adhesive stuff on my Musto and it has lasted a whole year and is still stuck on and that is on a rough surface.

I brought it from P&B.

Rick



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Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 21 Nov 05 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by NickA

A lot of contenders have this high friction rubbery sheeting on their decks and in their footwells. 

Progrip is it?  

Where can you get it?  .... and does it work?

Like having the glue on your feet! I can actually trapeze off the cockpit floor in marginal conditions - worth every penny. And yes it covers all sorts of 'blemishes' on the deck as well.

If it's actually for a Contender then talk to Graham Scott at Wavelength and he'll cut it to the correct shape for a Contender. It's not cheap as it'll be a whole sheet used up but the shape is nice. I also have a strip down each side of the cockpit floor and a (knee friendly) patch right up by the forward bulkhead for light wind. I think it was about £50 for all of it but I've some left over.

The other guys in the fleet confirm that the self adhesive is crap - sorry Rick must be the difference in velocity



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Laser 203001, Harrier (H+) 36


Posted By: Guest
Date Posted: 21 Nov 05 at 1:36pm
Originally posted by Matt Jackson

The other guys in the fleet confirm that the self adhesive is crap - sorry Rick must be the difference in velocity

Perhaps it dosn't stick to that old stuff - I think it's called wood ...

I suspect the people who have tried the self adhesive stuff didn't have the same stuff as I had as it worked fine; or didn't clean the boat properly before they stuck it on ...

Rick



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Posted By: m_liddell
Date Posted: 21 Nov 05 at 6:41pm
I used impact adhesive from B&Q (in a red tube with a black top) and it worked brilliantly.


Posted By: Ian99
Date Posted: 21 Nov 05 at 11:17pm
The problem with the self adhesive stuff isn't that it doesn't stick to the boat, it's that the "double sided sticky back plastic" which is used to make it "self adhesive" doesn't stick properly to the progrip!
After a week of sitting in the sun under a cover, you could just lift the progrip off, but getting the double sided tape type stuff off the surface of the boat took a lot of effort and cellulose thinners.
So I'd done the boat preparation part right then (brand new boat keyed with 600 grit wet'n'dry)


Posted By: simsy
Date Posted: 22 Nov 05 at 12:00am
I used the self adhesive pro grip on my 800, and its still there, no problems what so ever. I put it on just under a year ago, so I dont know why everyones having problems with it.


Posted By: Guest
Date Posted: 08 Dec 05 at 2:03pm

Does anyone know where you can buy this in sheets rather than the usual strips?

Rick



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Posted By: xtremity
Date Posted: 08 Dec 05 at 2:33pm

Can I recommend if you are after a large sheet (1.1m x 1.8m) you contact Xtremity on 01329 663883, you can get it in either adhesive backed or plain, in a variety of colours.

Xtremity are the UK supplier of Pro grip to the Retail and Trade outlets and developed the both the plain and the sticky version some of you love and some hate.

If applied correctly the sticky backed verison should last as long as the non glued version. One of the main reasons for the sticky one not lasting is poor surface preparation. unfortunatley salty and or greasy  surfaces doesn't make for very good bonding!

The other forgotten art is to make sure you round of any corners, if you leave it witht he cut square corners it is easier for the pro grip to start to lift, and as with any stuck down item once they start lifting they get pulled, caught and all the water/salt/dirt get's underneath and then causes them to lift.



Posted By: JimC
Date Posted: 08 Dec 05 at 3:13pm
FWIW

I've used two surfaces, two pot polyurethane varnished wood and two pot polyurethane painted glass. On both I found that adhesive backed stayed on longer than evostik.

I tried polyurethane glue and found it stuck to the painted surface but not the progrip.


Posted By: Guest
Date Posted: 08 Dec 05 at 4:40pm
Originally posted by xtremity

Can I recommend if you are after a large sheet (1.1m x 1.8m) you contact Xtremity on 01329 663883, you can get it in either adhesive backed or plain, in a variety of colours.

Xtremity are the UK supplier of Pro grip to the Retail and Trade outlets and developed the both the plain and the sticky version some of you love and some hate.

If applied correctly the sticky backed verison should last as long as the non glued version. One of the main reasons for the sticky one not lasting is poor surface preparation. unfortunatley salty and or greasy  surfaces doesn't make for very good bonding!

The other forgotten art is to make sure you round of any corners, if you leave it witht he cut square corners it is easier for the pro grip to start to lift, and as with any stuck down item once they start lifting they get pulled, caught and all the water/salt/dirt get's underneath and then causes them to lift.

CHeers, I have a new boat coming in the new year and want to get it progripped up before it gets wet. I will work out how much I need.

Do you  know how much it is for a sheet that size?

Rick



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Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 08 Dec 05 at 4:53pm
I expect so Rick, check the user name.

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Laser 203001, Harrier (H+) 36


Posted By: Guest
Date Posted: 08 Dec 05 at 4:58pm

Originally posted by Matt Jackson

I expect so Rick, check the user name.

Ah; well I await the price ...

Rick



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Posted By: NickA
Date Posted: 10 Dec 05 at 8:46pm

If it's actually for a Contender then talk to Graham Scott at Wavelength and he'll cut it to the correct shape for a Contender.

In fact it's for a laser 2.  But having removed the centre block and converted to off the boom sheeting I've nothing to push off of when getting out on the wire.  Plus being able to trap off the floor in light conditions and from the very back of the gunnels (where the "non slip" gelcoat runs out) when hammering down wind ... would be useful.

Wondering about a few strategically placed strips rather than acres of sheeting.  Waddya think?

....... alternatively could buy a proper contender instead of b*****ing about single handing a small 2 hander.

 



Posted By: Contender 541
Date Posted: 11 Dec 05 at 4:16pm
Originally posted by NickA

[QUOTE]

 

....... alternatively could buy a proper contender instead of b*****ing about single handing a small 2 hander.

 

Now your talking.  If your going to do something, do it properly



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When you find a big kettle of crazy it's probably best not to stir it - Pointy Haired Boss

Crew on 505 8780



Posted By: Matt Jackson
Date Posted: 12 Dec 05 at 1:05pm
Originally posted by NickA

If it's actually for a Contender then talk to Graham Scott at Wavelength and he'll cut it to the correct shape for a Contender.

In fact it's for a laser 2.  But having removed the centre block and converted to off the boom sheeting I've nothing to push off of when getting out on the wire.  Plus being able to trap off the floor in light conditions and from the very back of the gunnels (where the "non slip" gelcoat runs out) when hammering down wind ... would be useful.

Wondering about a few strategically placed strips rather than acres of sheeting.  Waddya think?

....... alternatively could buy a proper contender instead of b*****ing about single handing a small 2 hander.

 

There's a knackered looking one on ebay at the mo. All the kit is wrong on it but it's only on for about £250.



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Laser 203001, Harrier (H+) 36



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