Tips for fitting out a new boat.
Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: Dinghy classes
Forum Name: Technique
Forum Discription: 'How to' section for dinghy questions and answers
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10664
Printed Date: 08 Aug 25 at 3:31am
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Topic: Tips for fitting out a new boat.
Posted By: E.J.
Subject: Tips for fitting out a new boat.
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 10:31am
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I will be taking delivery of a new hull in few weeks and I have decided to do the entire fit out myself. Armed with all the bits and fixtures, as well as sealant I am ready to go. The boat is Epoxy with a Gel coat finish. It’s been a while since I drilled so many holes in a boat, so before I begin I would like to hear any hints, tips, general good practice and especially hard learned lessons about how to make a nice and lasting job of the fittings. What is your preferred process to ensure success? Please feel free to mention the most obvious things; although I am fairly proficient in this stuff, being reminded of the basics can only do me good. |
Replies:
Posted By: OBC
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 4:22pm
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measure once, curse twice or measure twice, drill/cut once ------------- MR 2404. Finn K468 |
Posted By: frow3n
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 5:35pm
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Just out of interest what class is the boat :) ? Fit it out so it suits you and your sailing style, that works best :) ------------- Laser Radial 201357 29er 1907 Queen Mary SC |
Posted By: Rob.e
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 5:39pm
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Countersink the holes before you screw into them, so the glass doesn't crack. ------------- |
Posted By: MattTrinder
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 5:42pm
| Don't seal/fix fittings with silicon. And don't use 3M 5200 if you ever want to get things off again without destroying the Gelcoat. |
Posted By: mongrel
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 5:52pm
If it is a Contender, I would look at getingt one of those carbon mast foots, that the Germans use, with the wings for the blocks for downhaul & outhaul, save drilling a few holes in the hull.
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Posted By: E.J.
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 9:16pm
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It is a Contender; from CServe. Funnily enough I have just made the mast base plate myself, looks good and saves me 8 holes.
I'm happy with the locations of the fittings now; its much the same as everyone elses, I was more after tips to make it a nice job.
Incidently, how do you all judge what bit size to use on screws when dealing with epoxy, is it the shank width, as with poly/vinylester or is there more to consider? ------------- |
Posted By: E.J.
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 9:45pm
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Matt Trinder I was intending to seal with sikaflex 291, when you say don't use silicon does this qualify, if not what would you recomend? ------------- |
Posted By: RichTea
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 10:25pm
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I think you should look for the pimp tread, that will give you inspiration when the 300 boys were about. Are you going to pro grip, if so what colour. Oh and this thread is useless without pics
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Posted By: E.J.
Date Posted: 26 Jan 13 at 11:15pm
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I'll have a hard job adding picture I don't have the boat yet.
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Posted By: MerlinMags
Date Posted: 27 Jan 13 at 7:59am
| Would be interested to see the mast plate. What is it made from, and how did you made the edges neat? |
Posted By: E.J.
Date Posted: 27 Jan 13 at 11:28am
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Its really simple, just a Carbon plate with angled flanges so I can attach 2 small blocks on each side and avoid having to fix them to the deck. The Mast step will sit on top of the flat portion in the middle. In terms of neatness; trial and error. I made a mould from cut tiles that I could clamp tightly, then when it had set I hacksawed it into the general shape I wanted and wet and dryed it to smooth the edges, I finished it with a final thin coat of epoxy to cover up the obvious amateur nature of it , and polished it up. I'm quite happy with it but on closer inspection you can tell it was made in a shed rather than a factory! the finish is a bit uneven.
  The idea is to end up with something like this.  ------------- |
Posted By: MattTrinder
Date Posted: 27 Jan 13 at 4:26pm
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Sikaflex 291 is polyurethane, rather than silicon, and is specifically designed for marine use so should be fine. |