Henri Lloyd developments for 2017: We talk to Creative Director, Craig Prest
by Mark Jardine 14 Nov 2016 10:25 GMT
14 November 2016
Henri Lloyd Elite Offshore Jacket 2.0 © Henri Lloyd
We spoke to Craig Prest, Creative Director at Henri Lloyd, about the latest technical marine clothing and ranges that they're developing.
Mark: What new products do you have for the offshore sailor?
Craig: Offshore for us has been about improving what has already been an award-winning product for Henri Lloyd. For the last couple of seasons we've had Elite, which is the lightest, most breathable and most durable offshore product available on the market. What we've done is taken that to Generation 2. We've improved the actual fabric to make it a little bit more abrasive-resistant, still lightweight and breathable, but we've improved that, and then we've combined that with some key feature-led innovation.
We went back to the drawing board on aspects like, for example, the hood and collar system, where new technologies in fabric, stretch materials, were showing us that there was a better way, a better answer to the solutions that we already had been using for a number of years. So we constructed a new hood and collar system that's fully adjustable, uses less fabric but is a much better fit, and that was an eighteen-month development cycle.
Then other features, for example we've been using Dartex for a number of years as a seal, both in inner cuffs and neck sails, and what we've done is we've found new fabrics through Italy, two-layer membrane, high stretch fabrics which produce a much better seal, are lightweight and more comfortable. So again, through proactive sourcing of new fabrications, and also looking at new fits and new feature-led technologies, we've managed to combine all those things and bring improved solutions to those products.
Mark: How many of these changes in your offshore gear are led by feedback from sailors?
Craig: I would say all of it. Obviously as a development team we spend a lot of time getting feedback from sailors, right through the different categories and it's invaluable in terms of they're the ones who are sailing around the world - especially in the offshore gear - they're wearing it more than anyone.
As much as we want to hear the good things, what we really want to hear are the things that aren't so good, because that really teaches us and moves us forward to provide an even better solution to what we have at the minute. So, we take it very seriously. For example, on the Clipper Round the World Race, we interview the crews after the race and we find out all their concerns; the good bits, the bad bits, the ugly bits. Then we refine that when we get back to base and look at what is common from that feedback and what really needs to be improved. Then it's a case of continuing to talk to them through the development process - we field test, we develop prototypes with them, and just make sure that whilst we want to improve fabric, we also want to improve fit and we want to improve features.
Mark: Moving onto inshore racing, this is an area where light weight and abrasion resistance is really important. What new products do you have in this category?
Craig: I think one of the things that's really changed the thinking on inshore racing has been the influx of new boats themselves. We've seen a lot more catamarans, more small cats, and different monohulls coming into play, but also boats like the Fast 40s, that are becoming more of a key category of boat in that sector. They're racing and you've got drag-free elements, you've got light weight, you've got athleticism and you've got different needs from the crew on these boats.
Ultimately what's been key for us is our collaboration and partnership with Land Rover BAR, working with the team and the sailors right from its infancy. What they set as a mission, they said, "Look, this is a completely new generation of kit we need." I remember talking to Matt (Cornwell) and to Nick (Hutton) and the team, and they were saying, "Craig, it's like running a 10K on a trampoline." and that's what you've got to vision, when that traditional foul weather gear just isn't going to cut it with what is needed.
So that led us into a completely new way of thinking about inshore racing, and it wasn't forgetting that dinghy is still key to that, and it wasn't even saying that the ultimate, that the America's Cup was the be-all and end-all - what it was saying was that we had a new generation of need and we could combine that with new fabric, with new testing, with new design, and it was a completely new start for us.
What we agreed on was that in today's sailing racing circuit, a modular system is needed, dependent on what boat, what class, what position on the boat you sail. What we came up with was a unique combination of products which could be worn in over thirty-five different ways, so you could almost bespoke your particular kit bag according to what your particular need is at the time. That was from shell, mid-layer, soft shell, and even to products like neoprene stretch. So what we hope we've produced is a fully flexible, adaptive racing kit that can suit all levels of inshore racing.
Mark: So you could have a helm on a boat and a bowman on a boat wearing the same range of kit, just different components of it, depending on what their role requires?
Craig: Absolutely, and that's just it. It is a completely flexible solution for teams.
Mark: With the work you've done with Land Rover BAR, this must have a huge crossover with the dinghy range, because the AC45 cats are basically just big dinghies. What have you got in store for the dinghy sailors?
Craig: A number of things, starting first of all with the classic stretch products, the neoprene products. One of the things BAR were very keen for us to investigate was coming up with a solution that wasn't just a cold weather or a warm weather neoprene solution. Because they're sailing in a number of different countries at different times, they don't want to be changing their kit every time. So we investigated how could we adapt a neoprene that would actually work in both a cold and warm weather situation? What we've created is a neoprene called Ventiprene, which actually vents - it has microscopic holes every five millimetres.
The holes aren't large enough for water to go through, but are large enough for air to go through, and what that does is like any two or three-layer woven fabric. It's allowing air in and it's allowing air out, so it regulates your body temperature and allows it to correspond with either the heat or the coolness of the water itself. So what we've created is a neoprene that we're saying will work in all conditions, will provide comfort throughout all conditions, and it just means you don't have to have that hassle of having a cold and a warm weather solution in your kit bag.
Mark: So effectively an all-weather wetsuit?
Craig: Correct. Also within that, which is a very important part for dinghy sailing, is the reinforcement as well. With different boats and different needs, what we've done is research where the protection is most needed; the front calf, knees and seat and what we've done is we've come up with a new reinforcement as well, which was specific to our development with Land Rover BAR, but has now come into our commercial offering as well.
Mark: Talking of protection, on salopettes the key areas, such as the seat and the knees, take a lot of wear.
Craig: Yes, they do.
Mark: I understand now that you bond on the new reinforcement material, but what material is it that you're using for protection on those areas?
Craig: It's actually a highly durable plastic, which is used in the automotive industry, and what we've done is we've brought it into our collection as HL - Protec this season. The test reports that we've had, both at lab level and field level, have really surprised us. When we've had a like-for-like, this new bonded film is so much more abrasion resistant than the standard fabrications that we've used in the past.
Of course because it's heat-bonded, the benefit is there's no limit to repair. So, if there is any lifting or there is any intense abrasion from wear, it can simply be repaired by applying a new heat bond on top. So there's no stitch, there's no breaking seams, there's no real re-work that's needed. I guess it's like a bike tyre – if you have a puncture, you can repair it. Similarly with this, if you have a puncture with HL - Protec, it simply gets heat-bonded on top. It's a very quick process and it's as good as new.
Mark: And can this be used across wetsuits, salopettes, all the way across the range?
Craig: I think generation one is where we are at the minute. With any new technology we develop, we're very careful about how we bring it in and how many products we use it for. We won't commercially offer it until it's been fully tested for a number of years first - our quality standards won't allow us to do that. So, we've been using this protection on the salopettes with the BAR team since the infancy of the development, so we're very confident with that. We have got field tests out elsewhere now and as soon as the data gets released, if they're successful, you'll see it come in other forms and across other categories, for sure.
Mark: Craig, many thanks for your time.
Craig: You're welcome Mark.
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