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Tacktick repairs

Printed From: Yachts and Yachting Online
Category: General
Forum Name: Repair & maintenance
Forum Discription: Questions & tips on the subject
URL: http://www.yachtsandyachting.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10966
Printed Date: 22 Oct 17 at 11:43pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.665y - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Tacktick repairs
Posted By: Greavesie
Subject: Tacktick repairs
Date Posted: 12 Jul 13 at 7:44pm
I recently dropped my Tacktick and cracked the display, when trying to find a repair agent to buy some spares from I was suprised to hear from the importer that they are not repairable and no spares are availiable so I need to give them 200 for a replacement.
As I run an electronics repair shop I thought I would take it apart and surprise surprise it looks very repairable to me. I have a replacement display and will try to fit it but this got me thinking.
I hate this attitude from manufacturers, in our company we try to repair all our products even those made in the 90's so I would like to have a go at repairing a few Tacktick's. If you have one that has stopped working please get in touch. Like most of these devices I suspect they just need a new battery and re-program but until I have actually fixed a few I will not know.
 



Replies:
Posted By: Oatsandbeans
Date Posted: 12 Jul 13 at 10:13pm
Good on you-I agree 100%. This attitude is everywhere, we need to fight it! Why chuck stuff away when it can be fixed? 


Posted By: andymck
Date Posted: 12 Jul 13 at 10:18pm
I can send you one for a new battery.
There was a company in NZ doing it.

Andy


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Andy Mck


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 13 Jul 13 at 7:19am
That didn't take long to get a reply looks like there are other sailors out there thinking the same way!
I would be really interested to have a look at your Ticktack.
Send it to me and I will see how I get on. Don't worry about me charging you. If I can fix it I will just ask you for the cost of the battery and postage to send it back if not, well it isn't working anyway!. Send me a text for my address 07963405516.


Posted By: PeterG
Date Posted: 13 Jul 13 at 10:11am
http://www.vanaheim.co.nz/compass.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.vanaheim.co.nz/compass.htm

This may be worth looking at. It has some useful pics of stripping a TackTick to replace the battery. I had trouble getting an exact match for the battery in the UK, though I managed to get one with the same spec, but slightly different terminals. Not got round to soldering it in yet, but the job doesn't look too difficult.


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Peter
Ex Cont 707
Laser 189635
DY 59


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 13 Jul 13 at 12:56pm
Hi Peter
Thanks for the link, they obviously have had the same issue in New Zealand.
I would like the spec of the battery you have found if possible.
I will send you some pictures when I fit it if you like.
There seems to be a real interest in this subject.
 
Tim
FF15 Sailor


Posted By: PeterG
Date Posted: 14 Jul 13 at 8:28pm
Hi Tim,

The battery I got was: Lithium-rech. industrial battery ML2430-HS1 3V 100mAh - Unit - it's almost the same as the one specified by the NZ site (and I think the one in the TackTick). The original battery in mine is also an ML2340, but made by Sanyo instead of FDK, and the new one has a pair of +ve pins instead of a single one. When I get round to fitting it, I'm planning to cut off one pin and use the other, as far as I can see it will fit fine like that. I got the battery from AllBatteries.co.uk. The batteries with the original pin spec seemed only to be available in the UK in industrial quantities, by special order!

Any pics would be very welcome, once you've done it.


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Peter
Ex Cont 707
Laser 189635
DY 59


Posted By: Mark300
Date Posted: 15 Jul 13 at 8:48am
I replaced the battery in my TackTick Micro earlier this year. I couldn't find an exact replacement battery anywhere in the UK and ended up sourcing the battery from batteryBob.com in the US. But delivery was still only a couple of days.

In replacing the battery, I couldn't find the jumper referenced in the instructions on the NZ website, a photo would be useful if anyone who is savvy in electronics is doing a replacement.

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Posted By: PeterG
Date Posted: 15 Jul 13 at 12:51pm
No, mine doesn't have the jumper either.

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Peter
Ex Cont 707
Laser 189635
DY 59


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 15 Jul 13 at 6:05pm
Peter and Mark
Did your Tackticks work ok after the battery change?
The post from New Zealand talks about selecting a special code in a program menu,
Did you have to follow their guide? 


Posted By: PeterG
Date Posted: 15 Jul 13 at 9:20pm
Sorry, not done mine, got as far taking it apart and sourcing the battery, but I have a spare and I've proved too lazy to do the job yet!

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Peter
Ex Cont 707
Laser 189635
DY 59


Posted By: Mark300
Date Posted: 15 Jul 13 at 9:39pm
I didn't need to do any of the special code stuff mentioned on the NZ site, mine worked fine after the new battery was installed. I replaced my battery in March, it has been OK ever since and charging is much improved.

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Posted By: Bender
Date Posted: 12 Aug 13 at 9:21am
I was trying to use a tacktick that was jumping on heading i.e. it would display, say, 145 while you turned it and then suddenly jump to 200, neither of which were correct! I assume that's not a dead battery issue...

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Jerry Hone
Contender GBR2432


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 21 Aug 13 at 10:04pm
Hi Peter 
 
I have received the tacktick from Andy and it needs a button which is a bit difficult to source. Do you fancy selling your fauly tactic so I can use it for bits? You said you have a spare and I need some parts. Don't worry if you want to fix it I just think the best source of parts is going to be from faulty units.


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 21 Aug 13 at 10:13pm
Hi Bender
 
This sounds like an issue with the compass I have looked at it and it seems to have something like 30 degree segments I would suspect you have a bad connection to one segment and it is jumping over the faulty one  to the next one that works. I could have a look at it for you but it is early days for me and I need to worK out exactly how they work. Let me know if your interested. I find them quite simple in their construction so I should be able to work it out. Text me on 07963405516


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 21 Aug 13 at 10:20pm
Hi Andy
Just back from holiday and have received you TackTick. I think replacing the battery will be staight forward but the missing button may be an issue. Do you know anyone with a dead instrument I could use for spares?
Basically I just need some parts......Can any one please Help!


Posted By: andymck
Date Posted: 22 Aug 13 at 1:19am
Hi Grievsie

I don't i am afraid. The button went the sail after we arranged to send it to you.
Does anyone have any ideas?


Andy



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Andy Mck


Posted By: PeterG
Date Posted: 22 Aug 13 at 10:11am
Sorry, Greavsie, mine just needs a new battery, and I'm going to fix it as a spare.

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Peter
Ex Cont 707
Laser 189635
DY 59


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 26 Sep 13 at 6:52pm
Hi Andy
I am getting on quite well with this little project.
I decided to buy a dead one from ebay and have put a non rechargable battery in it just to test how to calibrate them. It all seems quite straight forward and the unit is working fine now. I have ordered a couple of the correct batteries and will fit it one your instrument and the other inmy test unit when they arrive. 
Your missing button is a problem but I have found that the white rubber from the top of a pencil works perfectly so you may just need to use one of those if we can't find a dead tacktick to rob a keypad from.  It is still waterproof with no button so its not a big issue Tim


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 23 May 14 at 4:13pm
I think I am getting to understand this instrument now and have just replaced a battery in one. There seem to be several issues of PCB's The latest is a surface mount board which doesn't have a link to isolate the battery and seems to accept a battery swap without loosing its calibration. If anyone needs to know how to do it get in touch and I will explain it to you.


Posted By: Timg
Date Posted: 18 Oct 14 at 10:13am
Hi Greavsie, is it easy to change the battery or is this something you could help with as my tacktick doesn't turn on but did briefly do I think it may be the battery?


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 20 Oct 14 at 1:05pm
Hi The battery change is ok if you have the correct kit. The problem you face it that the early units display an error code (ERR) when you replace the battery and you can't get rid of it.
I am happy to have a look at it if you want and say which type it is.
Let me know what you want to do.


Posted By: Timg
Date Posted: 20 Oct 14 at 5:34pm
Thanks for that is there a way i can identify if it is one of the old or newer ones? Cheers


Posted By: piglet
Date Posted: 13 Nov 14 at 8:50pm
I have seen a couple for spares/repair on fleabay recently.
Shame, Tack Tick used to have an excellent reputation for support.


Posted By: Alistair426
Date Posted: 28 Apr 15 at 1:27pm
Makes sense to add this query to the existing thread...

The heading reading on my Tacktick 060 (Micro) is jumping all over the place, even whilst sitting stationary. Not a battery issue as it shows Bat 160 and isn't turning itself off. Timer still working fine. I've had a look at the reset instructions on the Vanaheim NZ site but that hasn't helped as I get slightly different figures (28P) in my re-set display. Anybody had and resolved a similar issue? 


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 01 May 15 at 10:23am
that sounds like the compass is unstable which would be a serious fault.
Maybe time for a new one!


Posted By: Alistair426
Date Posted: 01 May 15 at 10:33am
Bullet already bitten and new one on the way. I was hoping I could salvage the old one as a spare but apparently not. 


Posted By: skiertwo
Date Posted: 11 May 15 at 3:19pm
Hi All,
I have a micro and a race master. Both, I think, need new batteries. Can anyone tell me if they use the same battery, or are they both different?
Cheers.


Posted By: Pewit
Date Posted: 22 Aug 16 at 12:11am
I like the twin display of the TackTick but I'd like to link it to the more intelligent output of the Apps on my iPhone which could then be kept below deck.

Does anyone have the knowledge to re-engineer one of these with a Bluetooth module so that, for example, it could be linked to the output of iRegatta or RaceQs both of which have used Bluetooth for 2-way communications with the Pebble SmartWatch.

I know it would be possible to use WiFi for this but WiFi uses much more battery capacity.

Here's are some examples of interfaces
http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bluetooth-remote-lcd-display/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=TqZTBoepZsY
http://redbearlab.com/bleshield/
https://hackerspaceshop.com/products/teensy-ble

Development board (3.0 requires 3.5V input as opposed to the 3v of the TackTick)
https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html

Here's a teardown of a pebble SmartWatch which might be the basis of the module if you could power the display.
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Pebble+Teardown/13319

I know you could achieve the same thing using two phones but (a) it would be difficult to Synchronise them and the displays aren't as readable in sunlight.




Posted By: zippyRN
Date Posted: 23 Aug 16 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by Oatsandbeans

Good on you-I agree 100%. This attitude is everywhere, we need to fight it! Why chuck stuff away when it can be fixed? 


and much as people despise a certain well known  high street electrical retailer,  in their  repair centre they have a cell of 'proper' techs / engineers  who  work on  developing  repairs for 'unrepairable'  per the manufacturer  faults  (or  faults where the only suggestion  from the manufacturer is to  replace expensive  components) as well as other  'difficult'  fixes ... 


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 14 Sep 16 at 4:57pm
Hi guys
Well finally after what has been a long time I finally cracked the "CAL" problem that comes up on the older Tacktick instruments.
You just need to follow the instructions on the New Zealand web site and with a bit of luck it all starts to work again with a new battery.

Tim


Posted By: PeterG
Date Posted: 15 Sep 16 at 8:37am
Thanks Greavsie.

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Peter
Ex Cont 707
Laser 189635
DY 59


Posted By: ColH
Date Posted: 05 Feb 17 at 2:08pm
Originally posted by Greavesie

Hi The battery change is ok if you have the correct kit. The problem you face it that the early units display an error code (ERR) when you replace the battery and you can't get rid of it.
I am happy to have a look at it if you want and say which type it is.
Let me know what you want to do.


Hi Greavsie, do you have any more info on which early models do this (how to identify one), and whether it is solvable? Mine is probably 10yrs old or more! (but does have the power jumper). I've not yet changed the battery - just looking to be prepared, in case.

Another thing I'd point out to people - be careful when sourcing a new battery. I've just been searching and have come across one which, though described as 'ML2430', isn't rechargeable.


Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 06 Feb 17 at 9:05am
Hi ColH
The early one is the one with the power jumper and they can be tricky to get the "CAL" off the left hand display. I have found a rechargeable battery but you need to cut a leg off before you solder it in.
There is obviously a need for a repair service as I am surprised by the number of people who send me their units to repair having found this post. Having fixed quite a few now they are quite straight forward really.


Posted By: ColH
Date Posted: 06 Feb 17 at 12:37pm
Originally posted by Greavesie

Hi ColH
The early one is the one with the power jumper and they can be tricky to get the "CAL" off the left hand display. I have found a rechargeable battery but you need to cut a leg off before you solder it in.
There is obviously a need for a repair service as I am surprised by the number of people who send me their units to repair having found this post. Having fixed quite a few now they are quite straight forward really.

"Tricky"? Is that the stuff I've read about pressing the buttons when prompted by the 'Tst' displays?
I've found a similar/same battery - http://www.allbatteries.co.uk/lithium-rech-industrial-battery-ml2430-hs1-3v-100mah-abl7602.html - as you say, needs a pin trimming off.
(Got the thing apart yesterday without too much trouble; my iron at home is a bit chunky, so I need to take it into work for decent iron and some solder wick).




Posted By: Greavesie
Date Posted: 06 Feb 17 at 12:54pm
Yes tricky is about the best way of putting it.
The first page of this post has a link to the site in New Zealand where it is all explained.
Here it is again http://www.vanaheim.co.nz/compass.htm


Posted By: ColH
Date Posted: 06 Feb 17 at 7:06pm
I think its a shame the Tacktick is taking some stick for the built-in battery. Having just taken one apart I can appreciate that its actually very well designed - a one piece clear cover, sealing with a rubber gasket around the electronics. Hall-effect buttons so that they don't need to have holes in that cover (albeit hence calibration being needed).
Its not ever-lasting, nothing electronic truly is. Especially if it has a battery. I'm impressed with the design from an engineering point-of-view, but perhaps they should have acknowledged, and *serviced*, the need for eventually replacing the battery. Mine is now needing a new battery - when a mere 12+ yrs old lol. Anyone got a 12yr old phone with fixed battery that they could get replaced when it dies..?

[And, let's get partisan, with apologies to non-uk readers, they may be Raymarine now but they began as a British startup ]


Posted By: ColH
Date Posted: 17 Feb 17 at 11:44am
Originally posted by Greavesie

Yes tricky is about the best way of putting it.
The first page of this post has a link to the site in New Zealand where it is all explained.
Here it is again http://www.vanaheim.co.nz/compass.htm

Yep tricky indeed! When I can get it into 'the sequence', which isn't always, the first step has "F" on the end, not "P" - I'm getting same/similar fail codes mentioned in http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=75282  in particular, F72 at the end. And during "tst A1", the A1 is flashing - is that normal?
Any tips? Just keep trying? Or would it be worth dismantling, cycling the jumper again, and starting again.



Posted By: ColH
Date Posted: 17 Feb 17 at 12:01pm
Just been sat looking at this thing again - it's stuck in Cal such that although it beeps when pressing the buttons, it won't switch off. Had this earlier today while trying to cal it - think I just pressed randomly until it starting behaving a bit more.
But anyway, I've noticed the left screen in showing 065 but goes to ~115 when the Mode button is pressed. I'd say that's some sort of diag readout of the button operation. However the right screen is alternating ~108 to ~138 every half second, and is unaffected by pressing Set (although the unit does beep). Oh and CAL in the corner is solid on left side, flashing on the right.
Not sure what any of this means, just thought I'd mention it to increase the collective knowledge! Wink



Posted By: ColH
Date Posted: 14 Mar 17 at 5:18pm
Any ideas, anyone.....? :S



Posted By: Tennis
Date Posted: 01 Aug 17 at 10:24am
Hello,

We have a TacKtick base station with dead batteries I have extracted them but cant find any ML2430 in the UK. Do you have any or know where I can buy some UK sources because shipping LI bats costs a lot. $90-00 typically.
Christopher


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VanDiemen Films Ltd


Posted By: ColH
Date Posted: 01 Aug 17 at 10:31am
I bought http://www.allbatteries.co.uk/lithium-rech-industrial-battery-ml2430-hs1-3v-100mah-abl7602.html - though their site says currently out of stock. You could ask them lead-time though.



Posted By: Tennis
Date Posted: 01 Aug 17 at 2:01pm
Hello Thank you , I had found them but delivery too lengthy for my purposes

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VanDiemen Films Ltd


Posted By: Gene Albacore
Date Posted: 01 Sep 17 at 7:24pm
Hello,

I have an old Tacktick Compass that unfortunately was roughly handled and the Starboard display ended up being cracked. Are you still fixing them and if so, would you like to repair mine?



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