New Posts New Posts RSS Feed: Transom Flap help required
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

Transom Flap help required

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
spookysean View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 13 Jul 11
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 2
Post Options Post Options   Quote spookysean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Transom Flap help required
    Posted: 13 Jul 11 at 3:27pm
Hi, I am replacing a transom flap on my 420 and have purchased a sheet of thin Mylar which came with a roll of double-sided tape. 

Is the idea to use the tape just along the top of the flap so it can swing open when under pressure from water from the inside? And if so, is it likely to stop water coming IN from the outside?

Or is the idea to tape it shut completely and punch it open when there is too much water for the self-bailer?

Any assistance very much appreciated.

Cheers
Sean
Back to Top
Roger View Drop Down
Really should get out more
Really should get out more
Avatar

Joined: 23 Mar 04
Location: Somerset
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 524
Post Options Post Options   Quote Roger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 11 at 5:01pm
Your first comments are correct, just fix it across the top, as you say internal water pressure will force it open and any external pressure will just force it to close and stop water entering the boat...
 
Well thats the theory anyway.....
 
 
Back to Top
Jon711 View Drop Down
Far too distracted from work
Far too distracted from work
Avatar

Joined: 04 May 07
Location: United Kingdom
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 465
Post Options Post Options   Quote Jon711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 11 at 11:36pm
Personnally, I prefer fablon, that you kick out with a foot, after a capsize (I don't do them!), and then replace the fablon between races. More watertight, and depending on how often, (Or rarely!!) you capsize can work out cheaper. On a GRP boat I would always opt for fablon, however, when I was wooden Enterbox sailing, it did tend to remove varnish!!

Failing that hinge at either the top or the middle (Very little difference, in performance), but add some duct tape on the lower edge, to stop water entering the boat when tending the rudder during launching...

If the hinged flaps are preffered, I have been told that Overhead Projector Film is very good, but I have no first hand experience of this....

Jon
Blaze 711
Back to Top
spookysean View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 13 Jul 11
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 2
Post Options Post Options   Quote spookysean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 11 at 9:10pm
OK, thank you, gentlemen, I shall give it a try. Cheers for your help.
Back to Top
winging it View Drop Down
Really should get out more
Really should get out more
Avatar

Joined: 22 Mar 07
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 3956
Post Options Post Options   Quote winging it Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 11 at 9:28am
these things are the bane of my life.  Unless you do as Jon says and stick them up permanently until you push them out, there is no really effective way of keeping them shut so they keep the water out.  On a grp boat like a 420 I would definitely go down the tape/fablon route and never use them unless you have to - they're pretty useless as baliers anyway.  Both (!) my current woodie phantoms have the hinged version and I am probably going to use thin perspex along with rubber draft excluder stuff to try and make them water tight.  I don't like to tape them because it pulls the paint off!
the same, but different...

Back to Top
Jon711 View Drop Down
Far too distracted from work
Far too distracted from work
Avatar

Joined: 04 May 07
Location: United Kingdom
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 465
Post Options Post Options   Quote Jon711 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 11 at 10:52am
If you are thinking about the foam draught excluders, don't bother, they just do not work, and end up letting more water in, than if they had not been fitted. On a woodie, really strong shockcord, stiff flaps, and grit your teeth a bit of tape at the bottom (Insulation tape, may leave paint/varnish intact)
Blaze 711
Back to Top
winging it View Drop Down
Really should get out more
Really should get out more
Avatar

Joined: 22 Mar 07
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 3956
Post Options Post Options   Quote winging it Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 11 at 11:23am
.....and just don't capsize! cheers Jon!


the same, but different...

Back to Top
Graham T View Drop Down
Posting king
Posting king
Avatar

Joined: 09 Apr 07
Location: United Kingdom
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 123
Post Options Post Options   Quote Graham T Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 11 at 10:35pm
On my woody Osprey I just have really flexible plastic clamped in the middle with the rudder fittings. If I am at the stern sorting the rudder water pressure alone clamps them closed enough not to leak. No elastic or seals needed. I think this is only possible as the plastic is very flexible. I have no idea what the plastic is as I picked up a load of  offcuts out of a skip.....
Osprey 55 "Tebutinnang"
Osprey 1245 "Two Bob Bit"
Miracle 1358 "Thumper"
Back to Top
JMORRISSEY View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 18 Oct 15
Location: MANCHESTER
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 30
Post Options Post Options   Quote JMORRISSEY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 15 at 7:05pm
Can anyone help with my 420?  I have the same issue.  but i am restoring it and have a big hole in the rear.  as seen below...

It had a piece of perspex bolted over it. Should it have some sort of flap?  What to buy to get it to work?  Or should I just close it up with GRP?
Here goes my learning to sail midlife crisis
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.665y
Copyright ©2001-2010 Web Wiz