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boatshed View Drop Down
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    Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 10:23am
Originally posted by mozzy

To be fair to Steve I think this was an early sail with the off boom. And he hadn't yet learnt the trick to pass the sheet around the trap handle like he talks about in a later video... 

Yep, that is the trick  The extension needs to stay just behind the trap wire and your forward arm has to reach across your body to the extension, so, you can do the hand over hand thing and hold the extension and sheet in the helming hand.  This frees up your forward hand for the handle, control adjustments etc.   But.... when it is windy and the mainsheet is loaded up, you will be hauling on it with your forward arm across your body and this may not be the easiest in a long race.

Just another point worth raising.   In the RS800 and similar double handed boats, centre lining the boom is essential plus the leach can be held tight on the mainsheet tension if the rear bridle is accurately adjusted.   This is beneficial until you need to start freeing the mainsail and then the kicker takes over keeping the leach tight and this alters the mast and boom bend. 

On a single hander, the boom doesn't need to be centre lined, so, unless the bridle is a traveling type (think Laser), you will always need to rely on the kicker for leach tension.

The Contender seems to use a traveling bridle on the deck for a conventional centre main.   I think the idea is to loosen it in the lighter stuff to set the boom angle and leach tension on the mainsheet.  When the breeze is up, the bridle can be progressively tightened to allow a wider boom sheeting angle and with plenty of mainsheet tension, the leach holds tight.   Even windier, it is kicker tension all the way.

The MPS uses a centre main to the deck with a mainsheet jammer.  No bridles.


Edited by boatshed - 20 Feb 18 at 10:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 10:54am
Originally posted by boatshed

Originally posted by mozzy

To be fair to Steve I think this was an early sail with the off boom. And he hadn't yet learnt the trick to pass the sheet around the trap handle like he talks about in a later video... 
Yep, that is the trick 

Not sure if we're talking at cross purposes but when I was saying Steve hadn't learnt the 'mainsheet trick featured in a later video' I was referencing the below.  Watching back the first video of Steve you will see he is passing the sheet to his tiller hand pre-tack and gybe, so then the sheet is running across his body and blocking is path across the boat.  

But, if you take the sheet in you forward hand to handle like this:


And here is it in action in 800... You can see me taking the mainsheet with my front hand on the entry to gybe (and the jib sheet in tacks). But to do this you need to pass the sheet around the wire as you let go of the wire (video above), otherwise you'll be tangled. 


Still, with a deck cleat you don't need to learn that trick, as you can just cleat the main on entry, throw the sheet in the boat, and pick it up as you go through like I do in an old video here:




Edited by mozzy - 20 Feb 18 at 12:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote boatshed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 11:40am
Thanks, Mozzy.   The slight of hand in the first video is a neat trick.   It may be a different story with the mainsheet under tension.  Also, as you unhook and swing in, the mainsheet will also be released which may be a good thing.  Of course, as you go out the other side, you will auto sheet in.

I'm gonna try that trick but I use a cleat.  It'll save me chucking the sheet into the boat and having to retrieve it.

I await some 'wire to wire" tacking tips from iGRF when he gets his Farr on the water.  
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 12:07pm
It depends how quickly you can turn, but really you want to keep mainsheet tension entering a tack, or even increase it. This is very difficult to achieve without a cleat (unless you have a crew who has two hands to use!). You may need to ease the main on exit to allow a bear away, but you can do this by cracking a foot of main as you pick it up from the cleat mid tack. 

Gybing isn't so much of an issue as the ease on entry and slow sheet on as the apparent builds on the exit are both complimentary to the turn. 

The trick above is helpful even if using a cleat (just not critical), as it saves you having to pick up mainsheet as you go through. I take the jib sheet through with me in tacks in the 800, even though it is cleated and self taking. It means i'm ready to crack the jib in case we need to duck a boat or get hit by gust immediately, without the hassle of working down the mainsheet tail to where the jib is tied in. 



Edited by mozzy - 20 Feb 18 at 12:18pm
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iGRF View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote iGRF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 12:31pm
Originally posted by boatshed

]I await some 'wire to wire" tacking tips from iGRF when he gets his Farr on the water.  


What?Like stay on the one wire and go round the front like on a proper sail craft.

Edited by iGRF - 20 Feb 18 at 12:31pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 12:36pm
Originally posted by iGRF

Originally posted by boatshed

]I await some 'wire to wire" tacking tips from iGRF when he gets his Farr on the water.  


What?Like stay on the one wire and go round the front like on a proper sail craft.

 
(from 50 seconds)


Edited by mozzy - 20 Feb 18 at 12:37pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Granite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 12:45pm
I used to sail a twin wire boat with a cleat in the middle, then changed it to off the boom sheeting. Initially I made up a fitting on the boom which was a  bit like:  _0_ there were two plates under the boom sticking out each side where the ratchet block attached. On each plate was a cam cleat. To cleat the main I had to sheet in a bit higher than normal, and a slight pull down was enough to uncleat.

It worked quite well and the cleats were angled up enough that I did not have a problem with catching on them. Over time I used them less and less, and when I broke one landing on it in a capsize I did not bother repairing and just went straight from the boom.


If it doesn't break it's too heavy; if it does it wasn't built right
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Post Options Post Options   Quote L123456 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by boatshed


The MPS uses a centre main to the deck with a mainsheet jammer.  No bridles.

Incorrect; the Musto has a bridle ...


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Post Options Post Options   Quote boatshed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 5:02pm
And so it does!  Thanks.   Is that iGRF when he was in training with his Musto?

Edited by boatshed - 20 Feb 18 at 5:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Quote turnturtle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 18 at 6:25pm
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